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Mt. Whitney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cardiovascular Seizure T 
East Buttress T 
East Face T 
Mountaineer's Route, The 
North Face T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Leaman 1971 solo
New Route: Yes
Season: late summer
Page Views: 2,432
Submitted By: Keith Leaman on Apr 5, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Mt. Whitney North Face, hammerless solo FA 5.8 197...

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  • Description 

    The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.

    Location 

    Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.

    Protection 

    I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.


    Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the ...
    1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the sn...
    1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the sn...

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