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Storm King
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North Face T 
Northeast Ridge T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Bliss, Don Jones, Andy Lichtman
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Mar 29, 2012

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Description 

The north face is a dark, intimidating wall. Bob Bliss, however, in Rosebrough's guide, describes a "gentle flower-strewn-path-of-a-climb."

Rosebrough notes from personal correspondence with Bob: "Climb 40 feet to a ramp. From the ramp, climb right (west) up 3rd and 4th class ledges and short chimneys and then 70 feet of broken rock to a formation he called 'a bowl of tears.' At this point, climb up a steep, left-facing slab/dihedral and then 4 pitches up a chimney crack behind a great plate. Traverse 60 feet right (west) below the 'plate glass' smooth slabs and then 90 up feet via a crack in a left-facing dihedral with a small overhang at the top (5.7). Three long pitches of 3rd and 4th lead to snow and then up left (east) to a 'pass' climbing on dirt or mud. From here, 2 more easy pitches up broken blocks lead to the summit ridge."

Location 

Start below the central black streak . . . .

Protection 

Standard alpine rack.


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By Ray Hellinger
From: Flagstaff, az
Jul 3, 2012

I climbed the NR of Storm King a few yrs ago. Here is a link to a write-up I did about it...summitpost.org/north-face/2190....