North Face 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | M. Lusy and Z. Pompanin 1914. |
| Submitted By: | Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rough estimate of the first 5 (short) pitches and ...
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Description The route begins on the North side of the tower, (towards the Tofana). It follows the line of least resistance and finishes towards the left side of the face on the arete leading to the summit. This is a very old route, and is a favorite of the local guides for an introduction to the area. It's a fun route; steep but easy, with great holds on marvelous rock.
The very old Club Alpino Italiano guidebook by Antonio Berti rated this as a Grade IV, or roughly a 5.4/5.5 climb.
Location This route begins near the center of the tower, which lies to the left of Torre del Barancio. The descent is by rappel down the South face. Two ropes (50 meters) are required for the rappels.
Protection Fixed protection; old pitons and drilled-in anchors. Bring a light rack of a few wired stoppers and small to medium Camalots. Some longer slings, and lots of quickdraws are necessary.
Starting the 4th pitch traverse left
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Don't forget to look around while running up the N...
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By Rodger Raubach
May 29, 2011
| Sorry for the pretty sparse details, but it's been 47 years since I did this climb. It is a real fun route. |
By Rodger Raubach
Dec 15, 2011
| My description includes linking pitches by using a 60 meter rope. In "the old days" it was a 3-4 pitch climb! |
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.5
| A fun route and good intro to Dolomite climbing...good training to spot camouflaged, ring bolts every 40 ft :) This route switchbacks all over the North face. Even with double ropes and judicious use of gear/long runners, we broke it up into ~4 pitches to avoid drag. The Dolomiten classics guide by Mauro Bernardi breaks this up into 6 short pitches. |
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 13, 2012
| Even though the route tends to wander around, the primary reason for many short leads is that this is a favorite with guides taking beginners up a "real climb." The famous "guides belay" allows beginners to fall "up." |
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