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Torre Barancio
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North Face T 
Northwest Corner T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: I. Dibona, P. Appolonio, and F. Stefani 1934
Season: Summer, Autumn.
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on May 29, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The upper 4 pitches of Nordwand


The route begins almost the center of the North Face and climbs directly upwards for 30 meters to a small terrace (ledge). A short travese right to a crack which is followed upwards for another 10 meters and reaches a series of small ledges. Continue upwards another 60 meters to the summit.

This is an extremely enjoyable climb which is also an excellent introduction to Dolomite climbing!


To the right of Torre Lusy.

Double rope rappel(s) to get off the tower.


Fixed pitons for protection. Bring a light rack, runners and quickdraws.

Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
First two pitches visible on a cold, snow-packed June day.
BETA PHOTO: First two pitches visible on a cold, snow-packed J...
Cinque Torri, Torre Barancio, North Face (via Normale); UIAA Gr IV+.
Cinque Torri, Torre Barancio, North Face (via Norm...

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By Rodger Raubach
May 29, 2011

My memory of this route is a bit vague, as I climbed this in 1963.
The Antonio Berti guidebook gave this route a rating of IV+ at the time, which translates to ~5.6.
By Rodger Raubach
Dec 15, 2011

The Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel guidebook "Classic Dolomite Climbs" gives this as 4 pitches. A 60 meter rope allows linking pitches and the climb may accomplished in 2 long leads.
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

"Dolomiten: Die schoensten routen" by Mauro Bernardi breaks up the route into 5 pitches. I believe we did it in 3 with double ropes and additonal long runners to alleviate rope drag.
By David Kozak
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a nice route and crowded. The first moves (crux) are relatively unprotected with sloping holds. It might be a bit un-nerving for a 5.6 leader. Do the route in three pitches (straight to the top--don't traverse off right to other summit) and make two single rope raps off the summit.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 18, 2013

The Mauro Bernardi guidebook rates this climb as UIAA Gr. IV+, which is also equivalent to 5.6.