BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.
This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. Its best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.
During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.
Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Face:
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
East Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
El Whampo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Hard Lark 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
El Grandote 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Elegant Arch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 11 pitches, 1600'
Featured Route For North Face
Northeast Face East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : North Face
There are no bolts on this 1954 Royal Robbins route. P1: Climb flakes left of a right-facing dihedral until you're in a left-facing dihedral.P2: climb up into a right-facing dihedral with a wide crack (a #4 is helpful). Belay at a ledge with a small tree. P3: leave the ledge and follow a thin crack in a very nice right facing dihedral past two fixed pitons. When under a small roof, make an exciting traverse straight right 15' (5.6) to gain a crack system and then up to a belay spot. P4: cl...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow st...
After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...