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This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. It’s best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.
Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.
11 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face:
West Lark 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Northeast Face West 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Hard Lark 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
El Whampo 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Too Biased 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Partners in Crime 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Coup de Grace 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Grace Slick 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Elegant Arch 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 11 pitches, 1600'
Featured Route For North Face
Northeast Face West 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : North Face
This route is easy to find – a huge right-facing corner just to the left of the Larks. There are multiple overhangs on the route, and you need to move out away from the main crack in one or two places. It is a sustained, quality route. The belay ledges are quite small, making this a poor choice for a party of more than two people....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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