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 ADVANCED
Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

North Face 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Larry & Roger Dalke
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Bruce Pech on Jun 9, 2002

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Another Bell Buttress classic, North Face. Photo:...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you're crossing the creek to climb Hound Dog, pack some trad gear for a taste of "Dalke 5.9."

The North Face begins at the Hound Dog belay and follows an unfortunately brushy, right-facing corner left to a pedestal facing an alcove. Climb a thin, clean crack up and out of the alcove to a face and a second alcove. Jamming and stemming through the second alcove is the crux. Belay on the ledge above. Either climb another short crack and finish on the second pitch of Cosmosis or traverse north along the ledge, down-climb insecure and exposed rock (belay advised) to the anchors on Freaks on a Leash, and rap back to the base of the route. SR. Save #6-9 Stoppers and small cams for the thin crack through the two alcoves.

The North Face was rated 5.9 in the first edition of "High Over Boulder." Sport climbers may find it a little stiff for its currrent .10a rating.

Protection 

#5 RP - #2.5 Friend. Save #6-9 Stoppers and/or small cams for the upper crack.


Comments on North Face Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007

Rack to a #3 Camalot.
By Keith Leary
Aug 2, 2012

The thin crack is very good. I didn't do the Unknown 5.10.a, but it looks like doing the unknown 5.10a bolts to the start of the crack would make this a very vice pitch.