|580 page views|
Another Bell Buttress classic, North Face, photo: ...
If you're crossing the creek to climb Hound Dog, pack some trad gear for a taste of "Dalke 5.9." The North Face begins at the Hound Dog belay and follows an unfortunately brushy, right-facing corner left to a pedestal facing an alcove. Climb a thin, clean crack up and out of the alcove to a face and a second alcove. Jamming and stemming through the second alcove is the crux. Belay on the ledge above. Either climb another short crack and finish on the second pitch of Cosmosis or traverse north along the ledge, down-climb insecure and exposed rock (belay advised) to the anchors on Freaks on a Leash, and rap back to the base of the route. SR. Save #6-9 Stoppers and small cams for the thin crack through the two alcoves. The North Face was rated 5.9 in the first edition of "High Over Boulder." Sport climbers may find it a little stiff for its currrent .10a rating.
#5 RP - #2.5 Friend. Save #6-9 Stoppers and/or small cams for the upper crack.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
Rack to a #3 Camalot.
|By Keith Leary|
Aug 2, 2012
The thin crack is very good. I didn't do the Unknown 5.10.a, but it looks like doing the unknown 5.10a bolts to the start of the crack would make this a very vice pitch.