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 ADVANCED
Hitchcock Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Face T,TR 
North Face T,S,TR 
Northwest Route T,S 

North Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Kamps? 1960
Page Views: 3,154
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Nov 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Scott getting ready to rappel down after a Christm...

Description 

The north side of Hitchcock Pinnacle is one of the most climbed routes on Mt Lemmon.

Standing below the north face, stem up onto the large block/ledge atached to the right side of the pillar. From here, step left onto face and edge up past one bolt to a large flake. Up flake and right to top out.

Lower off chains.

Protection 

small nuts, tri-cams, slcd's...tricky pro?quickdraws


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Racing the sun to the top
Racing the sun to the top
James clipping the 2nd bolt.
James clipping the 2nd bolt.
night time
night time
:)
:)
James, getting ready to clip.
James, getting ready to clip.
tr
tr

Comments on North Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2013
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jan 2, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Aesthetically, this is a two star route. Subtract a star for every 10 tourists or every single RV at the pullout.

I understand there was a small bolting issue on this rock. There is currently one bolt on this route. Strangely, the remaining bolt is next to the best natural protection available on the route. Down lower, a variety of aliens come in handy.
By JayCap
Sep 16, 2005

There are currently two bolts protecting this route -- the first is just around the corner as you step onto the face, and the second to the left of the bulge. (See photo).
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Jay, I think that first bolt is off-route. I think there is another route that goes up that side. If you traverse in lower, you can protect those horizontal cracks with aliens or cams of similar size. OR you can go straight up from the ground through those horizontals :)
By JayCap
Jan 22, 2006

You are right, Bobby. I believe that first bolt is for the 5.8 route that goes pretty much straight up from that spot. Thanks for catching my mistake.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I actually think climbing the route in front of tourists is part pf the fun. Normally it's annoying, but you have to accept it for this particular route. I say pick a major holiday and do it with a real crowd. You'll get a huge round of applause and tons of cameras will snap your picture atop the pinnacle. Tourists will surround you after you rap off and ask questions like "How tall is that, like 200 feet?" and want their picture taken with you in all your gear. Trust me, there is no other way a 5.7 will garner you that much fleeting fame and glory!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

a great route because it's the easiest way to a fun summit. an excellent place to take beginners. they will love it!

just wondering though...what is up with the unnecessary bolts?? the one on the north face route could be chopped and no one would miss it; the one on the northwest route could probably be removed as well and leaders would just have to use small cams in the horizontal down low.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 14, 2008

Are you trolling for a good long thread Jon? Get back to work!

Maybe we should chop the first two pitches of Bachar/Yerian since a 19 year old kid did it without clipping the bolts. Check out the CO forum and you can read the article. Don't think he has said a thing about chopping bolts yet. No need to make a statement with the chisel his climbing already has!
By Brendan Leonard
From: Denver, Hollarado
Apr 27, 2009

We got on this after assuming from the description in Rock Climbing Arizona that it was a sport climb protected by two bolts. Kind of a scary climb if you go up with just a couple of quickdraws and no gear.
By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2009

On the other hand the climb is only 40 feet long and you can see every move from the ground. A little less time staring at the guide book and a little more time looking up at the actual route may have given you a clue as to what you were getting yourself into.
Learn to rely on yourself, more than a guide book. You'll be way better off in the long run.

Climb safe!!
By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 8, 2009

This is an amazing route with good view. Pro is not needed, but would prob make this more safe for the leader. I was just out last night on the .7 .8 routes. Both are fun.
By Dominic Amend
Aug 5, 2013

there's currently two bolts if you start from the ledge on the west of the Hoodoo. Would feel so much less sketchy if there was a bolt between the first and second (at least for sport). A fall between the first and second would swing you right into the ledge.