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Dreamspeaker
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North Face 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 280', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Paul Marshall (UK) 16th Oct. 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,431
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 16, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)

Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.

This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE> Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009
Nice area, great views, no people.

Protection 

Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.


Photos of North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route. North Face
BETA PHOTO: The route. North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire...
First Ascent P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire...
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...
P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Spire from the East
View of the Spire from the East
Rock Climbing Photo: The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...
The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross
Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross

Comments on North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 11, 2004

Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.

Alex
By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2

I freed the second and third pitches 11-15-08. The second goes at 5.11b and the third goes at 5.10d. Bring a bolt kit to replace rap bolt in a sketchy loose block at the second rap station.

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