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A superb tower one of the best in the desert,and in a magnificent canyon. P1) The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.(5.11b free)
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2. (5.10d free)
Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.
This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.NOTE> Pitches 2 and 3 freed by Micheal Ferraro in 2009
Nice area, great views, no people.
Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.
BETA PHOTO: The route. North Face
First Ascent P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire...
P.Ross on Pitch 2. First Ascent North Face of Drea...
View of the Spire from the East
The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...
Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 11, 2004
Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.
By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C2
I freed the second and third pitches 11-15-08. The second goes at 5.11b and the third goes at 5.10d. Bring a bolt kit to replace rap bolt in a sketchy loose block at the second rap station.