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Super Crack Tower
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North Face Route 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Coats, Dave Dawson 80's
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on May 18, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: North Face Topo

Description 

This is a great route for the few people out there who like this kind of stuff. It's like a bigger badder version of The Dodger.

Pitch 1) 5.10- 110' Start on the corner of the north and north-west faces. Traverse right on a ledge to reach the main crack system (5.6 R). Climb the sustained and physical hand crack thru many bulges to a final 10' offwidth section. At the top of the off width traverse right and scramble to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) 5.10- PG13 80' A burly pitch. Climb the roof above the belay (5.9+). Pull an awkward bulge above the ledge, and start up the laser cut offwidth corner above. Gear is occasionally found in cracks on the right face to supplement the #6 Camalot. Physical climbing leads to a nice ledge in a room. The belay crack is inside the room in the chimney below your feet.

Pitch 3) 5.9+ R 80' Think you're done? No! Take your helmet off, suck in your gut, and worm your way up the squeeze above your head. Unprotected, but impossible to fall out of. Flop onto a ledge, and rest up for the final 30' of 5.9+R face climbing to the summit. The only gear on the pitch is a red alien 5' from the top. A fall before you get it in could result in a 20 footer onto a ledge, but you wouldn't fall off the ledge.

Descent: rap the north face with 1 rope.

Location 

Park at Midgely Bridge. Hike 1 1/2 mile up Wilson Canyon Trail until 2 spires appear on the right. The right one is Super Crack Tower. Bushwhack up and right, along a ridge a few hundred yards east of SCT. When at the level of the base of the tower, bushwhack back left to the base of the tower. Scramble under the south face of the tower, then up the west side. Start left of the obvious crack system that almost touches the ground on the north-west corner.

Protection 

All sizes in new Camalots.
2 each 0.1 - 4. 1 each 5, 6. Nuts. Big Bro's if you got 'em.


Photos of North Face Route Slideshow Add Photo
A tired Patrick on the summit.  The bush behind him is the rap anchor. <br />
A tired Patrick on the summit. The bush behind hi...
The North Face Route follows the only crack that runs the length of the tower in this photo.  The 'R' part is the top-right skyline to the top, after exiting the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: The North Face Route follows the only crack that r...

Comments on North Face Route Add Comment
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 18, 2006

Does anyone have any info on the original route on this tower? We intended to repeat it, but the higher we went the less it seemed to fit the guide book description:"north lightning bolt cracks". There were no slings or fixed anchors on the summit, so unless some bird made a nest out of them I don't think anyone could have been on this summit before. The Tower has a separate summit of the same height about 30 ft away, so I figure the original route must have summited the east tower. It was getting dark so we didn't have time to see if there was a route up that tower that fit the description better.
By tcskis
Oct 16, 2006

The route you did was the original route. Dave Dawson and I did it around 1982. Rapped off a bush, I imagine the sling blew away years ago.
Nice to see someone finally repeated it. It's a fun route.
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 17, 2006

Thanks for the info Tim. I corrected the route info. Sometimes it's hard to make heads from tails from the guide books when doing the lesser traveled routes. If I were to give that route a 1 sentence description "lightning bolt cracks" certainly wouldn't be it! :-) Nice route, I really enjoyed it.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2007

Just did the 1st pitch of this route in order to get to Kole's new route to the left across the limestone band. Regrettably this first pitch ranks among one of the worst I've climbed as far as loose and dirty. That said, aside from the initail 5.6R start the protection is sufficient. The upper pitches look somewhat better.
By Ryan Z
Feb 13, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I really enjoyed this climb. It is definitely not for everyone but something about wide and spicy appeals to me. Easily climbs in 2 pitches. Heading up the OW and chimney that splits the 2 towers was a great time, then you blink a few times and head up another 25ft of face.

I have climbed P1 a few times for access to turkish bride and dancing with the other woman before finishing this climb. It must have cleaned up quite a bit, with the exception of the first 15 feet, it seemed fine.