North Face Route
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 100', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Scott Baxter, et al., 1978|
|Season: ||Fall to Spring|
|Page Views: ||1,104|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Bill Hiscox about to stick his finger in the bolt ...
Tisha Spire is approached from the Midgley Bridge parking area and sits in behind (north of) Steamboat Rock (see photos). From the parking area, take the Wilson Canyon Trail to the Jim Thompson Trail turnoff, then after about five minutes on the JTT, turn uphill and gain the ridge above that is followed to Steamboat. Traverse from Steamboat over to Princess/Tisha. You have to scramble atop a large ledge running along the east side of Tisha, which takes you to the north side and the route.
P1) Climb up pretty good edges past a couple of bolts and a flake to the ledge in the middle of the north face. Belay from a static line tied around a big boulder. (it is possible to do this all in one pitch - with some rope drag).
P2) Move to the left (climber's left) and climb a nice right-facing dihedral to it's top. Move right from there, clip a single bolt, then make a tricky move down and right to gain a left-facing low-angle corner system that leads to the summit.
Descent: Rappel (a FULL 100 feet!) from chains atop pitch 2.
NOTE: In both the Toula and Bloom guides to Sedona, there is a righthand (5.6) version of this route indicated on the topo. As far as I was able to discern, this path is no longer 5.6 (if it ever was). Disregard this and go up the nice 5.8 way!
Draws, light rack from 1/2" up to #3 Camalot size.
|Comments on North Face Route
From: flagstaff, az
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
As of 4/2006 there are 2bolts on the first pitch and a missing baby angle, the flake past the 2nd bolt would take very suspicious gear(I contemplated placing something and decided it would be better to take a deck fall than to take a deck fall with a flake landing on top of my head) The crux of this pitch is at the top (run out section) It really isn't that hard, but be prepared to take it seriously. It would be nice to replace the missing baby angle with a bolt. The good news is that someone has recently added a bolt to the traverse on the second pitch. For the minimalist, I recommend a couple of quick draws, a #0.75, #1, #2 Camalot and a 60M rope. I would rate the overall difficulty as only 5.7.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 18, 2006
I believe the 5.8 variation is the giant flake to the left of the face. If you have a big piece or 2 (and you trust the giant flake) then this is a fun variation. It goes from hands to squeeze chimney.
Someone bolted the traverse on P2, but they left the crux of P1 with a 30' groundfall?? I thought the traverse protected fine, but I remember that first pitch sure needed a bolt at the crux.
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 8, 2013
I climbed it yesterday with Scott Sellars and Bill Hiscox. Bill bolted the pitch 40 years ago today! They continued to the top via the overhanging crack on the right; Scott Baxter climbed the left side.
Great to climb it with them. Both agreed the bolt should be replaced; and it would still be a scary top out.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 17, 2013
I didn't realize the first pitch originally did have a bolt at the top. I take back my previous comment.