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Hook Creek Drainage
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North Face of The Mole T 

North Face of The Mole 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don Gordon, Pat Callis, Eric Bjornstad, Dan Davis 1962
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Shaun Johnson on May 21, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base on The North Face of The ...

Description 

The Mole is the tallest of the quartet of spires and the second one from the left. The North Face is an amazing route with unique views of the Icicle and the Enchantmens. I felt there was not a stand out crux and the climbing throughout both pitches was consistent and very enjoyable.

The Climb originally took the left trending crack system after the first pitch. We took the Right and thought it was awesome.

There is a very empty summit log at the top waiting to get some new names on it!

Location 

An easy sandy gully (or snow) leads to the base. Follow the obvious large crack system, at about 60 meters the route splits and both variations are 5.7.

Decent: there is an exciting 3-rappel descent to the East ending by the prominent chockstone chimney. all rappel stations are one bold with additional tat. Scramble down gully or make rappels back to base of the route.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches.
Bring plenty of pro to make belays and to protect two rope stretching pitches or consider doing it in three shorter pitches.


Photos of North Face of The Mole Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back down at the approach from the summit.
Looking back down at the approach from the summit.
Temple Ridge from the super chill summit recliner....
Temple Ridge from the super chill summit recliner....

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