North Face of Pike's Peak Rock Climbing
Will as we begin the Hero Traverse.
Pike's Peak towers more than 7000' above the town of Colorado Springs. Plainly visible from US Highway 24 on the way up to Woodland Park is the tantalizing north face. Rising out of the Bottomless Cirque, the north face offers a plethora of snow climbs, mixed routes, and descents for skiers and riders. The good news is that access is easy, but the bad news is [that access] is expensive. Fork over $12.00 each for a ride to about 13,000' or the last big bend in the road before it climbs to the summit. Park on the west side of the road in the howling wind and make your way east for 75 to 100 yards. Find a likely spot to descend onto the Hero Rock Traverse and feel the wind die away (results may vary). This area can be creepy, but keep at it. It's not too bad. Make a descending traverse to the southeast, working your way around snow gullies and a spur. A broad amphitheater announces your arrival at the Corinthian Column. The fine mixed routes, Total Abandon
and Blind Assumption
, adorn it on either side.
Keep traversing to reach the snow gullies of the Railroad and Y Couloir
for a climb or descent.
The gate is run by very non-climbing oriented people. It opens at 7:00 AM and closes at dark from May through September. Winter means the gate opens at 9:00 AM. As to be expected, they don't allow cars to be parked overnight.
In Spring, watch out for avalanche conditions. Most anywhere on the face could and probably has been climbed. This is a very cool place (see Rock and Ice #). Eds. This information had been listed under the rock section under RMNP/Alpine then non-RMNP/Alpine and now here by request & for better organization.
From Colorado Springs, take US Highway 24 west (past Manitou Springs) to the Pikes Peak Highway exit on your left. Signs show the way to where you have to fork over the cash and then follow the above directions. Expect 40 minutes of driving to get to the parking for most of the ice. Enjoy.
As of 11/11, the fees are $12 per person, $50 for a car with up to 5 people. The late fee for missing the 5pm closing is $100 per person!
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Face of Pike's Peak
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Face of Pike's Peak:
WI4 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'
Toga Party 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
WI3-4 M5- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'
The Ole 6 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
WI3 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'
Featured Route For North Face of Pike's Peak
The Ole 6 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
WI3 M6+ CO
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : North Face of Pike's Peak
"We'll work up a number six on them." The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed. P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Nancy working through the Hero's Traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Fall colors, '06.
The Corinthian Column, October 2013. Definitely so...
Working across the Hero Traverse. It's much less d...
An early morning on Pike's Peak.
Base of the Corinthian Column. You can see the ic...
Slade approaching the Corinthian Column on Nov. 9t...
BETA PHOTO: A very helpful topo from hikingtherockies.com.
By Dan Russell
Jan 12, 2002
The other way to approach the Bottomless Pit cirque (for those of us who are poor but determined) is to hike the Barr Trail out of Manitou Springs up to Barr Camp (about 7 miles?). Continue past Barr Camp about a mile and follow a sign for a trail heading north to the Bottomless Pit. Traverse the mountainside as it rises slightly while winding up and around into the cirque. It's a long approach (you'd need to camp) but it makes it feel more alpine and I think you get more out of it. It's a satisfying feeling to return to your car knowing that you just hiked 20 miles while lugging rock and ice gear along with camping and cooking supplies.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 6, 2011
That's a typo: you'll want to reference Rock & Ice issue #85 (not 65).