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North Face of Castleton Question



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By Monty
From Morrison, Co
Sep 10, 2012
Just a teaser

For the OW on the 3rd pitch do you want a (new) #5 or #6? The comments are all over the place regarding protecting that pitch.


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By knowbuddy
Sep 10, 2012
uh huh

I had one new #5 and would have loved to have a #6 as well. The climbing isn't hard but it's never comfortable moving above a tipped out 5 on awkward climbing


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By Monty
From Morrison, Co
Sep 10, 2012
Just a teaser

hmm, what about taking just one 6?


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By knowbuddy
Sep 10, 2012
uh huh

I recall walking my 5 a good amount. Next time I do it I'll definitely take both but you can easily get away with only one, if I only took one I would take the 6 next time. We were planning on doing the N chimney but it was crowded so we did the N face with N chimney rack. So you can do it with a smaller rack you just have to be smart about what piece your leaving where.


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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Sep 10, 2012
The Shield

There is a section where the five is about the only thing you get. There is a sortof traverse move where the 6 works above that. If you question your widecrack skills, you'd be happy to have both.


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By Monty
From Morrison, Co
Sep 10, 2012
Just a teaser

Thanks Guys!


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2012
Tony Bubb enjoying the good "clipping holds" (hardy-har-har) while climbing 'Circumcision (6b)' at Nanyang Wall, in the Batu Caves area of K.L., Malaysia. Photo by Kenny Low, December 2006

you can also suppliment is a spot or to in what I recall to be a near-horizontal section of a crack that runst left to right into the crack near the top. I did it without OW gear and was glad to get those stoppers in!


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By Alexander Nees
From Grand Junction, CO
Sep 10, 2012
Alex midway up TCT.  Photo by Kim Caovan

I did it with a #6 Friend and no #5 equivalent piece. Actually, I'm pretty sure I had the usual ton o' #3s, a single #4 C4, and the #6 Friend. That worked well for me. The third pitch was not at my limit, but it was hard for me, and I was VERY glad to have the #6, but felt comfortable without the #5. If/when I do the route again (it's amazing!), I'll bring the same rack.


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By Steve Sangdahl
From eldo sprngs,co
Sep 10, 2012

JB and I were able to do this with just 1 number 4 Camelot.....did not seem bad. Steve S.


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