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Lost Flatiron
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Arete T,TR 
North Face Left T 
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North Face Left 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1996.
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

2 pitches. Start 6 feet from left edge (ramp) of the flatiron's face....head straight up beautiful slab with decent cracks here and there for pro. There is a nice wide crack for fun about halfway up. Can belay at any of numerous ledges after half way or more. Crux is going around the LEFT side of a small tree (right on edge, much exposure) 50 feet from the top. Continue on steep slab to summit. It's not climbed often so a nice moderate isolated route.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2001
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If the rock seems crappy, then you are on the little buttress about 50 yards down the hill too far. Go up and around to get to the right rock. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch, as the route is less than 200 feet long. Rossiter's description of a crux at about 200 feet up would have to be correct. Anyone climbing over 200' on that rock is INCREDIBLE. Seriously, it is nice and it's probably easier than 5.7. It climbs and protects like a flatiron. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch.
By pete cogan
Aug 13, 2002

Granted, the approach takes some time, and the descent is steep and messy. In addition, it seems less than 5.7, and I would say there really isn't a crux. However, I thought this was a terrific moderate climb with good pro and neat exposure. Also, the views to Blob and Eagle are excellent; it's a fine place to be on a sunny day. Although it can be done in one long pitch, two pitches keeps you in sight of your partner for the most part. I think this climb is well worth doing -- once.
By Adam Hicks`
Sep 27, 2002

Definitely a one pitch route. I seem to remember that Rossiter's book says it's even three pitches long...now that's an overstatement if I've ever heard one! Pretty straight forward, no funny traverses that would cause rope drag or anything, so there really is no reason it shouldn't be done as one pitch, seeing as how it isn't even 200 feet. Oh yeah, the very bottom balance slab getting up on the face is the crux and didn"t feel any harder than five seven with the rest being five five or easier (forgive me my keyboard just fritzed and I can no longer type commas or numbers). Happy climbing!
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Jan 1, 2003

Climbed this on 12/28 after playing around on Huston Crack. It took some effort to find the rock, and I wish I had read Tony's comment before being there -- the buttress that's directly downhill from the Lost Flatiron threw me off a little. I probably took a line that was a bit too far to the right of the arete, because it didn't feel like there were any moves even remotely approaching 5.7.