P1. Starts the same as North Face Center....goes left when steep finger crack goes left on face away from the big dihedral on right....then traverse left on shallow ledge....up tricky and steep finger cracks to blocky belay ledge.
P2. Then continue up steep but easier cracks to top.
Walkoff the back.
Slung horns and cams and stoppers....doubles on smaller cams nice.....
Bruce Hildenbrand making the final step left to th...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Cob's North Face. Nigh...
|By Matt Bauman|
Jan 1, 2001
Good climb, better than Northface Center and Northwest Corner IMHO....
|By Andrew Klein|
Dec 31, 2001
You can just make it with a 60m rope. Don't place pro, or use a long sling on the traverse left to eliminate drag to do it in one pitch.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 23, 2002
This route has a couple creaky flakes on it. I ran it out across the traverse only to discover that my placements would have to go behind flexing flakes. That old pin after the traverse looks pretty good at that moment! A great route.
|By Adam Hicks`|
Jul 18, 2003
Did this earlier this morning. I don't like it when my holds all feel like they'll fail. Not to spew beta, but I got a bomber #4 Smiley wedge in at the left end of the traverse behind the big flake. It didn't LOOK bomber, but would have held a fall, especially since I just wanted it while I moved up to the pin. In the undercling above the pin I got a really good green alien, and then I slung the super creaky flake. I don't think the slung flake would have held a fall, but it was easy to the ledge after that.
If you like climbing on peeling onions you'll like this climb. The moves are spectacular, and the pro reminds me of Eldo, but everything is hollow and flexing. For an awesome finish go straight up the crack in the middle of the tower without steping around the corner to the right.
|By Jeff Gustafson|
May 10, 2004
Great climb, seconded this Saturday, and was very impressed by the movement and the exposure.
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Jun 9, 2006
You can backup the fixed pin under the crux w/ a #0 TCU. Check out the extremely loose flake down and right of the pin! Wicked!
|By Cody Munger|
From: Carson City, NV
Jun 12, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Don't even THINK about touching that flake or using it for gear. There is a small edge to the left of it you can use as a much smaller hand hold.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2007
This one is lots of fun. Good gear fun moves, nice exposure, use some double length runners, be smart with where you place your pieces, and you can stretch it in one 60m pitch.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jun 5, 2011
Did a direct variation straight up without the traverse left. 5.8+.
|By David Rivers|
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Beware of many loose flakes on this climb. These significantly detract from the quality of the climb.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Still a lot of loose flakes. Not a good lead probably if this is your top grade.
Gear beta: a small tricam might fit great in the pocket before the traverse (I only had an orange Alien which is a bad squeeze).