North Face, Hummingbird Saddle Route
|106 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.4 [details]|
|FA: ||Unknown. 2011 by R. Cort, M. Reece, J. McManamen|
|Submitted By: ||Robert Cort on Oct 24, 2011|
Looking at The Retaining Wall from the summit of T...
Start directly on Hummingbird Saddle, climb a bulgy arete towards a roof, bypass the roof to the right, climb to, then cross a narrow brushy ledge to the left and belay just east of the actual summit. Un-rope and scramble to the actual summit. A (much?) harder variation looks possible keeping right on the narrow brushy ledge and climbing directly to the summit. There is much lichen, and moss (you may have to clean out cracks for pro), and watch for loose rocks once you reach the roof.
Start almost directly on the top of Hummingbird Saddle.
Descent: Rap back down into Dark Canyon. Or pick your way down to the gap between Minerva's Temple and The Retaining Wall, then either rap or traverse (roped) back into Dark Canyon east of Hummingbird Saddle.
No fixed gear. You won't find much for pro on the first 40', so place when you can.