All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Needle & Square… > Retaining Wall

North Face, Hummingbird Saddle Route

Name: North Face, Hummingbird Saddle Route
Rating: 1.4

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British

Routes in The Retaining Wall

North Face, Hummingbird Saddle Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Unknown. 2011 by R. Cort, M. Reece, J. McManamen
Page Views:	1,029 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Robert Cort on Oct 24, 2011
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

Start directly on Hummingbird Saddle, climb a bulgy arete towards a roof, bypass the roof on the left, climb to the right, then cross a narrow brushy ledge to the left and belay just east of the actual summit. Un-rope and scramble to the actual summit. A (much?) harder variation looks possible keeping right on the narrow brushy ledge and climbing directly to the summit. There is much lichen, and moss (you may have to clean out cracks for pro), and watch for loose rocks once you reach the roof.

Location

Start almost directly on the top of Hummingbird Saddle.

Descent: Rap back down into Dark Canyon. Or pick your way down to the gap between Minerva's Temple and The Retaining Wall, then either rap or traverse (roped) back into Dark Canyon east of Hummingbird Saddle.