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Middle Rabbit Ear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Church Key T 
East Ridge T 
Great Expectations T 
Gubbins T 
Normal Route (South Corner) T 
North Face Gullies T 
South Face Central T 
South Face Cutoff T 
Three's the Charm T 
West Face T 

North Face Gullies 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Paul Wohlt, Ron Thomas, George Goedecke, Frank de Saussure
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Oct 30, 2013

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The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. You will want to add at least a point to it. For comparison, the Normal Route, considered by many to be seriously sandbagged at 5.6, is listed in the same document as 5.5, the West Face as 5.6. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

"This route starts by paralleling the East Ridge to its right and below. It mounts veering constantly to the right toward the North Face. At the top a hard crack is found. This may be the hard crack on Gubbins (see next route) but only Paul (the goat) Wohlt probably remembers for sure."


Easter approach recommended.



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