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North Face Couloirs T 

North Face Couloirs 

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine
Original:  [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,964
Submitted By: Julian Smith on May 19, 2002

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Ripping a turn lower down with slough in the backg...

Description 

From the bottom of the north face, locate a couloir that bisects the face on the right hand side, and goes up to the west ridge. Climb this couloir. The best variation is to take the left hand split, about half way up, just past a large rock tower on the right. The left hand couloir necks down and gets a little bit steeper (65 to 70 degrees) before finishing just below the summit. Alternately, climb straight up the couloir to the west ridge and scramble up to the summit. Descend as for Pacific Peak, down the east ridge. Overall, either couloir is probably about 1000 feet long.

This route is in condition, probably most of the year. Beware of serious cornices on the west ridge above the route. Stone fall is also present as well. In spring, this is primarily a snow climb. By late summer, the left-hand couloir will melt out, necessitating some easy 5th class climbing on the side.

Protection 

This is primarily a snow and ice climb, but there is plenty of potential for rock gear along the sides of the couloir. Maybe take a small rack of gear and a couple of ice screws.


Photos of North Face Couloirs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: this is the day luca brasi speaks of. he is on the...
this is the day luca brasi speaks of. he is on the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pacific Peak.
Pacific Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: From a distance, Pacific Peak.
From a distance, Pacific Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the last section.
Climbing the last section.
Rock Climbing Photo: David standing atop the crux choke wondering how t...
David standing atop the crux choke wondering how t...
Rock Climbing Photo: My friend David decided to rap over the 3-5 ft cor...
My friend David decided to rap over the 3-5 ft cor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of the couloir
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: My usual view of George Barnes. High up on Pacific...
My usual view of George Barnes. High up on Pacific...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dropping into the North Couloir of Pacific Peak, A...
Dropping into the North Couloir of Pacific Peak, A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view.
Another view.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yep, not a go this year.
Yep, not a go this year.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of the couloir.
From the top of the couloir.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down past the crux.
Looking down past the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up into the meat of the couloir.
Heading up into the meat of the couloir.
Rock Climbing Photo: High on life.
High on life.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Wellner on Pacific Peak. Lovin' Colorado!!!!
Paul Wellner on Pacific Peak. Lovin' Colorado!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: 1 turn below the last photo past the crux which wa...
1 turn below the last photo past the crux which wa...
Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of the unnerving cornice we climbed un...
A good view of the unnerving cornice we climbed un...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Marlboro Man on the summit.
The Marlboro Man on the summit.

Comments on North Face Couloirs Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 29, 2002

Is this route in the middle of flavor country?
By Cory Cleveland
From: Missoula, MT
Jul 1, 2005

Climbed this couloir (the "left" branch) on 6/24/05. The lower route was in good shape, but the upper steep section had melted out within the last few days. This made for some spicy climbing on junky "ice" and unconsolidated mud. Very little opportunity for solid pro in rock on this route.

All that said, it is a cool route, and could be really cool with just a bit more snow.

We descended via the SE ridge and glissaded a couloir back to Upper Mohawk Lakes for a cool loop.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 14, 2008

Classic! I'm claiming the first snowboard descent down the north couloir. As far as I know, my friend David is the third skier to ski it top to bottom. I tried last year mid May, and it was too thin and melted out but on April 19 this year it was good to go!
By Mike Soucy
From: Longmont, CO
May 18, 2008

Found fixed line from top of couloir down through bottom of crux. Perfect for rapping through steep and narrow choke (65deg,narrower than your skis) Double check security as I relocated it from some melt/freeze chossiness.
Nice snow.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 2, 2008

Really? When we went through I just hand lined over the cornice and my partner rapped in and put his skis on, both of us got through the crux on our own. My partner could not retrieve the rope so he left it, but it didn't go through the crux.
By Drew Gibson
From: Frisco, CO
Jul 25, 2009

We skied this in May as part of a Range enchainment There was no cornice. The wind had blown in some fluff and it was about boot top deep. Absolutely epic. I was back there 4 days ago with the girlfriend and it's firm snow with 4 decent patches of ice. Could get even better with the cold temps at night up high. Easily solo-able, weaker climbers will want a rope. The ice is to thin for screws, I took a few small nuts. A KB or two could have been useful.

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