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North Face & Northwest Corner

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

North Face & Northwest Corner  


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Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark M. on Aug 16, 2002
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Description 

The North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.

The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!


Getting There 

To reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face & Northwest Corner:
Mystic and the Mulchers   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Call Evita 911   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 155'   
Klondike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   
Leaping Lizards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
McCarthy's North Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Psychic Turbulance   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
California Dreaming   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Spiney Norman   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Whine and Bruises   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in North Face & Northwest Corner

Featured Route For North Face & Northwest Corner
beginning of spiney

Spiney Norman 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn...
This fine corner is one line left of Carol's Crack and is most conveniently completed in two short (80') pitches. To start, scramble up and left around the blocks and flakes left of Carol's and belay in the broken area. A moderate (5.8) first pitch takes the crack system that is two cracks left of Carol's, then trends right at about half a rope-length to a belay (this coincides with most of the first pitch of Whine and Bruises and avoids lesser quality rock in the right crack). The crux second p...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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