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North Face & Northwest Corner

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

North Face & Northwest Corner 


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Page Views: 22,080
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mark M. on Aug 16, 2002
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Description 

The North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.

The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!


Getting There 

To reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Face & Northwest Corner:
Mystic and the Mulchers   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Call Evita 911   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 155'   
Klondike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   
Leaping Lizards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
McCarthy's North Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Psychic Turbulance   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
California Dreaming   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Spiney Norman   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Whine and Bruises   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in North Face & Northwest Corner

Featured Route For North Face & Northwest Corner
Starting up the first pitch.

McCarthy's North Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn...
This is one of the all time classic routes on the tower. Find it by heading up the North Face/ NW corner approach. When you get to the base of the tower look to your right for a large left facing corner that starts low angle and gets steeper and has a lardge roof aboiut 200 feet up. This is a few cracks to the right of the Everlasting column.P1. Head up the low angle rock in the corner and belay from mostly fixed gear on a sloping ledge directly underneath the roof. This pitch is 5.8 and is...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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