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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber T 
American Beauty S 
Curve of Binding Energy S 
Furious Howard Brown S 
Mercy Drilling T,S 
North Crack T 
Other One, The S 
Pocket Fisherman S 
Shakedown Street S 
Space Goats S 
Wise Crack S 

North Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: J Marsella on Mar 24, 2012

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Phone-camera pic of the route. Sorry for the quali...

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>


Per D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook, this is the deep crack in the dihedral, just right of Mercy Drilling.

Either smush into the crack or do dihedral moves.

The crux was edging left onto the face at the end to reach the anchors for Mercy Drilling. Moving out is committing. Overall, there are good rests & several "what next?" spots for a 5.8 leader.


Walk around the corner from Choss Temple Pilots and find the big, shady dihedral & crack.

Lower/rap off anchors.


This takes gear from fingertips to fist. Medium stoppers could be useful.

Use Mercy Drilling's bolted anchors with rap rings (to the left of the little cave at the top of the route).

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