North Crack 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Barry Corbet, Jake Breitenbach, Charles Plummer '56 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Sep 8, 2002 |
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Confronting the steep bulge at the top of the crac...
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Description This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.
Protection Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.
Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the p...
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BETA PHOTO: Jeff J. places gear in the crack before starting t...
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Jeff J. conquers the Balcony Point crux
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By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.7
| What a great finish after climbing Spire 2. This is definitely a repeater...next time I plan on getting over the bulge without using my knee..haha |
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 18, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Great route... Great position... Great Fun! If Classic Crack on Inner Outlet and the Doody Direct on the Gnomon are 5.8 then this route is 5.8. Beware of the awkward stance at the new anchors. |
By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sep 6, 2011
| I agree about the anchor comment. I decided to build a gear anchor back in the cracks of the summit and it worked very well. I think belaying off the chains might send the 2nd into a swing if they fall. |
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