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Balcony Point
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North Crack 

North Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Barry Corbet, Jake Breitenbach, Charles Plummer '56
Page Views: 3,323
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 8, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Confronting the steep bulge at the top of the crac...

Description 

This is a great climb. Start by climbing the first 2 pitches of the east face route on Spire Two. Then, when at the saddle between Spire Two and Balcony Point, climb up to the obvious beautiful splitter crack that goes almost to the summit of Balcony Point. Climb this, the hardest move being pulling through a bulgy crack to the top of the pillar.


Protection 

Standard Rack. The 3rd pitch is a perfect crack that eats up gear.



Photos of North Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Summit 1
Summit 1
Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the pitch two, while Angela arp and Matt Misfeldt cheer me on.
Looking back to the cozy belay at the end of the p...
Jeff J. conquers the Balcony Point crux
Jeff J. conquers the Balcony Point crux
Jeff J. places gear in the crack before starting the crux of Balcony Point.  Photo taken from atop Spire 2.
BETA PHOTO: Jeff J. places gear in the crack before starting t...
Summit 2
Summit 2
Comments on North Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyson S Arp
Sep 19, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

A very fun climb! Definitely as intimidating as it looks, but very well protected. Try not to add to the DNA collection as you jam the very sharp crack near the top!

Click here for more photos and a trip report.

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

What a great finish after climbing Spire 2. This is definitely a repeater...next time I plan on getting over the bulge without using my knee..haha

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 18, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Great route... Great position... Great Fun! If Classic Crack on Inner Outlet and the Doody Direct on the Gnomon are 5.8 then this route is 5.8. Beware of the awkward stance at the new anchors.

By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sep 6, 2011

I agree about the anchor comment. I decided to build a gear anchor back in the cracks of the summit and it worked very well. I think belaying off the chains might send the 2nd into a swing if they fall.