North Country
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Charley Jones, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey, C Stanborough, 1975 |
Page Views: | 4,157 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Location
This route (I am only referring to the pitch of North Country that starts at the ledge where Dragon Back and Absolutely Brilliant start - See Beta Photo) To get to this ledge you can go to the alcove that is the start of the second pitch of North Face, the start of a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face) and the start of Wallflower which is left of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. From that position to access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you do an easy 5th class down and right approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. For information on accessing this climb see Beta Photo herein. To do the First Pitch and third Pitch (and beyond) of North Country refer to the comments section below.
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