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North Country 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charley Jones, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey, C Stanborough, 1975
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Information on getting to an Alcove where you can ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch is interesting and a bit of an adventure, the second pitch can be done without doing the first pitch as described in the location section herein. This pitch is excellent hand and finger jams and takes gear well with a couple of fixed pieces also. I know nothing about the 3rd pitch or beyond.

Location 

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Absolutely Brilliant, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along. For information on accessing this climb see Beta picture herein.

Protection 

2 (I think) pieces of fixed gear and pro to approx 3". The second pitch has 3 fixed pins and a bolt. You will need a standard rack up to 2 inches for the second pitch


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2012

The third pitch of this route takes the prominent vertical crack on the headwall and goes straight up. The crack thins down and you go past a couple good pins before trending up and right on dikes past a bolt to a belay. Great pitch.