North Country  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Charley Jones, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey, C Stanborough, 1975 Submitted By:  John Robinson on Sep 27, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The first pitch is interesting and a bit of an adventure, the second pitch can be done without doing the first pitch as described in the location section herein. This pitch is excellent hand and finger jams and takes gear well with a couple of fixed pieces also. I know nothing about the 3rd pitch or beyond.

Location 

This route and others (second pitch of North Face, Absolutely Brilliant, a 5.9 unnamed OW (just right of North Face), and Wall Flower) Start in (or Near) an alcove (Wide flat bench) at the base of the second pitch of North Face. To get to this alcove you can go up Stem Mister then continue up on easier terrain or do the first pitch of North Face. This is a great place to spend the day climbing away from the public. You might even mow the lawn that is there. To access Absolutely Brilliant, North country and Dragon Back you will need to 3rd class down and right from the alcove approx 40' and then up an easy section to a bushy ledge that you can traverse along.

Protection 

2 (I think) pieces of fixed gear and pro to approx 3"