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Mount Yukla
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North Couloir/Barranow Couloir 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI4- Steep Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 20 pitches, 3500', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI4- [details]
FA:  ?
Season: September through March
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: Johnkelley on Dec 26, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Late September from the boulder bivi

Description 

Conditions on this climb vary greatly depending on the season and snow conditions. Later in the season it's mostly a steep snow route. Early season it's a classic mixed route with around 2,000 feet of ice climbing and 1,500 feet of rock.

It's one of the first lines in the area to come into condition. Usually by late October/early November it starts to get buried so get on it early. For the prime early season conditions it seems to be best when the bottom half of the face is free of snow. After the first "terminal dust" falls but disappears. Not the third dusting.

When the conditions are right it's one of the best lines around. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. It consistently comes into shape, as a mixed ice route, every year from September to October.

Location 

Mount Yukla

Protection 

A small rock rack and a few ice screws.


Photos of North Couloir/Barranow Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Stein in the North Couloir. Photo John Kelley
Steve Stein in the North Couloir. Photo John Kelle...
Photo Steve Stein
Photo Steve Stein
looking down from the statr of the route in september
looking down from the statr of the route in septem...
Crux pitch Photo Steve Stein
Crux pitch Photo Steve Stein
Photo Josh Varney
Photo Josh Varney
Crux pitch photo Steve Stein
Crux pitch photo Steve Stein
Here's the first pitch
Here's the first pitch
photo Steve Stein
photo Steve Stein
Excellent late September conditions from the Eagle River Valley. The North Couloir is clearly visible in the center of the photo. Photo Steve Stein
BETA PHOTO: Excellent late September conditions from the Eagle...
Spindrift photo Steve Stein
Spindrift photo Steve Stein
Steve Stein in the North Couloir with No Call No Show above and to the right. Photo John Kelley
Steve Stein in the North Couloir with No Call No S...
Perfect early season conditions in mid September. The middle section of the route is clearly visible. It tops out in the large notch to the left of the summit. Photo Steve Stein <br />
BETA PHOTO: Perfect early season conditions in mid September. ...
Photo Josh Varney
Photo Josh Varney

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