Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mount Yukla
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gank'd and Slayed 
History of Things to Come T 
Most People are DJ's T 
No Call No Show T 
North Couloir/Barranow Couloir T 
Positive Side of Negative Thinking, The T 
West Ridge T 

North Couloir/Barranow Couloir 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI4-

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 20 pitches, 3500', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI4- Steep Snow [details]
FA:  ?
Season: September through March
Page Views: 1,761
Submitted By: Johnkelley on Dec 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Late September from the boulder bivi

Description 

Conditions on this climb vary greatly depending on the season and snow conditions. Later in the season it's mostly a steep snow route. Early season it's a classic mixed route with around 2,000 feet of ice climbing and 1,500 feet of rock.

It's one of the first lines in the area to come into condition. Usually by late October/early November it starts to get buried so get on it early. For the prime early season conditions it seems to be best when the bottom half of the face is free of snow. After the first "terminal dust" falls but disappears. Not the third dusting.

When the conditions are right it's one of the best lines around. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. It consistently comes into shape, as a mixed ice route, every year from September to October.

Location 

Mount Yukla

Protection 

A small rock rack and a few ice screws.


Photos of North Couloir/Barranow Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Stein in the North Couloir. Photo John Kelle...
Steve Stein in the North Couloir. Photo John Kelle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Steve Stein
Photo Steve Stein
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from the statr of the route in septem...
looking down from the statr of the route in septem...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch Photo Steve Stein
Crux pitch Photo Steve Stein
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Josh Varney
Photo Josh Varney
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch photo Steve Stein
Crux pitch photo Steve Stein
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the first pitch
Here's the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: photo Steve Stein
photo Steve Stein
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent late September conditions from the Eagle...
BETA PHOTO: Excellent late September conditions from the Eagle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spindrift photo Steve Stein
Spindrift photo Steve Stein
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Stein in the North Couloir with No Call No S...
Steve Stein in the North Couloir with No Call No S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect early season conditions in mid September. ...
BETA PHOTO: Perfect early season conditions in mid September. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Josh Varney
Photo Josh Varney

Comments on North Couloir/Barranow Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!