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 ADVANCED
North Cliffband

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Montana S,TR 
Cochiti Classic T 
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 
Empty and Meaningless S 
Feminist Men S 
Grunge Up the Munge T 
Gunning for the Buddha S 
Holy Wars S,TR 
La Espina S,TR 
Laurel's Climb S 
Monkey Lust S 
Montana Deviate T,S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 
Pickpocket S 
Praise the Lunge S 
Thief Crack T 
Thief in Time S 
To Catch A Thief S 
Touch Monkey S 
Unknown S 
Unknown - Boulder Left S 

North Cliffband  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
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Description 

This is the section of cliff to the NW from the downclimb. There are roughly 25 excellent, though short routes. This is the most convenient crag at Cochiti, where it is easy to setup TRs on many routes, there is a nice 'scene' at the cliff base, shade trees, and a good diversity of grades is available.

Getting There 

From the downclimb, head NW.

Climbs (Right to Left) 

Napoleon Blown-Apart (5.11b)
Grunge Up the Munge (5.9+ crack)
Proctologist's Fantasy (5.12b)
Praise the Lunge (5.11c)
Unknown Parallel Cracks (11a/b crack)
Gunning for the Buddha (5.12b)
Lainbo (5.12b)
Montana Deviate (5.9+)
Holy Wars (5.11a)
Back to Montana (5.11c/d)
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (5.11- crack)
Touch Monkey (5.13a)
Digital Pleasures (5.12b)
Empty and Meaningless (5.12b)
Feminist Men (5.12a) - begins on top of giant boulder
Monkey Lust (5.10a) - begins on top of giant boulder
Laurel's Climb (5.6) - giant boulder
Unknown - Boulder Left (5.9) - giant boulder
Cochiti Classic (5.10 crack)
La Espina (5.12a)
Cochiti Ugly (5.10 crack)
Thief in Time (5.12a)
Thief Crack (5.8 crack)
To Catch A Thief (5.11b/c)
Unknown (5.10a)
Pickpocket (5.11c)
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) (5.11b/c)
Unknown (5.??)

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Cliffband:
Thief Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Monkey Lust   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Praise the Lunge   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
La Espina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 70'   
Thief in Time   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gunning for the Buddha   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Classics in North Cliffband

Featured Route For North Cliffband
DisturbingThePeace nabbing the redpoint after a 4 year hiatus.  This 12a took 3 goes.  The next day he got a 13a in 2.

Gunning for the Buddha 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : North Cliffband
This sequential line is a classic Cochiti test-piece. Half the trouble is deciding which of the heavily chalked pockets visible from the ground are best left unused. The other half is keeping it together on the final, tricky slab move just below the anchors. The technical crux is reaching the obvious S-shaped crack at midheight, where a great rest gives way to the sinister, slabby redpoint crux just above....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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