North Carolina  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  35.6037, -79.2773 Map Page Views:  2,507,100. Good page? (15 likes)    Administrators:  saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New Guidebooks (2)  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Hawksbill Mountain, Linville Gorge

Description 

You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.

In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.

What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if you’re going to climb in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here, and even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.

For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock is a great destination. Fun leads in the “easy” range (5.3-5.5) abound, and there’s good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald.

If you’re ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain or Laurel Knob; only the seriously adventurous need apply.

There are also numerous bouldering areas in North Carolina. Hound Ears , near Boone, is one of the hosts for the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that’s the only time it’s open to climbing).

Getting There 

The climbing in North Carolina is spread across the state and divided into several distinct regions. From the tobacco fields of the Piedmont to the dramatic gorges in the High Country to the granite walls of the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains; if you are west of Raleigh you are probably close to amazing climbing. See individual areas for directions.

Access Issues 

The USFS temporarily closes many areas in North Carolina for Peregrine Falcon nesting. The Carolina Climbers Coalition does a great job of keeping their site up to date regarding closures.

Also, it seems that the CCC is always working on opening access to new climbing areas around the state. They have been invaluable in opening areas like Asheboro, Rumbling Bald, and Laurel Knob, just to mention a few. If you climb in North Carolina, think about donating time or money to the cause and/or joining the CCC.

The Classics

Featured Route For North Carolina

Dopey Duck 5.9  NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain

P1-(100') Two options: (a) 5.8 : scramble to the top of the large detached block (roughly 20' off the ground) and climb the crack to a belay alcove about 10' above a dead stump in the crack (b) 5.9 : Take the first pitch of Toxic Shock, this is a highly recommended and more direct start that follows a right-leaning crack to the same belay as mentioned above. This "finger-crack" is deceptively steep and sustained for the 100' to the belay.P2- (100') 5.9: From the belay, follow the crack up a shor...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Carolina Slideshow

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KK Gregory pulling hard on the perfect sandstone a...	Lee on Zen face at the Gold Coast Cliffs in Linvil...	Tim leading the classic crack five ten 'eh at Ghos...
Big Green 09/08	Big Green 09/08	FA at secret crag early 1990's
Did somebody say granite? NC.	somewhere in Pisgah Forest	Nature is beautiful in Pisgah
James Ruth on FA of Illusion of Careless Flight -...	rest day activity	bountiful backcountry crags
Tim climbing a sweet roof crack at Gost Town in Hi...	Happy Log...	Near the top of Grandmother Mountain, Boone area ...
Close up from wolf/cedar rocks	A nice view of the south face with several climbin...	Josh Bittner taking the new way up p2 of Hindu Kus...
Wiseman's View, Linville Gorge NC	FA on the Hebron Rock Colony Line! Slack Liner: Mi...	FA of Hebron Rock Colony Line Slack Liner: Mike H...
near whitesides.	One of a kind... "mountain golden heather" at Sho...	Hwy. 64 Whitesides Overlook in October
Doc Bayne on one of His Serious Adventures First A...	winter sunset	Rare route 300' right of Starshine
Marvin pulling the crux of Tunnel of Love (Sams Kn...	Pic of Pilot mtn (in pisgah) from BRP.	Another shot from the BRP near devils courthouse.