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 ADVANCED
North Canyon Wall

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Adaptation S 
Avoid, The S 
Blockhead S,TR 
Bucky Done Gun 
Dawning Direct, The 
Dawning, The 
Flatland Fever S 
France By Chance S,TR 
Freight Club 
Garden Party T,TR 
Head Solution S 
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 
One Finger Solution S,TR 
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 
Seams to Go T,TR 
Tension Comprehension 
Two Bits S,TR 
Why Be Normal S 

North Canyon Wall 


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Page Views: 7,188
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
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Photo taken from the drainage

Description 

The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.

From here, either set up a toprope on one of the anchors, or retrace your steps part of the way back towards the car. A faint trail can be seen which leads into a chimney with a chockstone in it. Squeeze through the hole in the chimney to get to the canyon floor, and then traverse over to the base of the climbs to lead them.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Canyon Wall:
Paperboy Centerfold   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Garden Party   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Two Bits   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
France By Chance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Blockhead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Seams to Go   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Killer Wasp From Hell   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flatland Fever   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Adaptation   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
One Finger Solution   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 50'   
Browse More Classics in North Canyon Wall

Featured Route For North Canyon Wall
Rick on North Canyon Wall

Adaptation 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  SD : Falling Rock : North Canyon Wall
This route climbs the bolted face just to the left of "France by Chance", and this is a good one. The route involves very specific moves in the first 15-18 feet, and the only rest is on an awkward ledge just to the right of the third bolt. The climbing eases up after the fourth bolt. Anchors were placed 10-12 feet below the rim so jackass vandels can't get to 'em. Mark thinks this one climbs at 5.11a on toprope and 5.11b on lead. So for those of you who want something new and challenging at...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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