North Canyon Wall Rock Climbing
Photo taken from the drainage
The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.
Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.
From here, either set up a toprope on one of the anchors, or retrace your steps part of the way back towards the car. A faint trail can be seen which leads into a chimney with a chockstone in it. Squeeze through the hole in the chimney to get to the canyon floor, and then traverse over to the base of the climbs to lead them.
Weather station 11.0 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Canyon Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in North Canyon Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Canyon Wall:
Two Bits 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Seams to Go 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Blockhead 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Adaptation 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For North Canyon Wall
One Finger Solution 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c SD
: Falling Rock
: North Canyon Wall
This is the hardest route on the North Canyon Wall. It follows the bolted face to the right of "Blockhead". The first bolt is at the very bottom, about chest-height from the ground, and is there just as much for the belayer as the climber to prevent both from tumbling down to the bottom of the canyon in the event of a fall before clipping the next-higher bolt. The first part involves using probably one of the most uncomfortable finger-pockets i've ever encountered, and once past that it reall...[more] Browse More Classics in SD