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North By Northwest 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 480'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 2,523
Submitted By: Rob Rives on Jun 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Finishing the 1st pitch of "North by Northwest."

Description 

The longest route on Stone Depot, and the left-most route as you are hiking downhill. Start on a low-angle slab with the obvious bolt line.

Pitch 1 (5.4): Slab and clip your way to chains, or link this with...
Pitch 2 (5.6): More slabbing and clipping to a nice stance below the short headwall. Pitches one and two are easily combined with a 70m rope.
Pitch 3 (5.7+): I've seen literature detailing this pitch as 5.8, but it felt quite soft for the grade. Make some steeper moves through eyebrows, then run up easier ground to chains.
Pitch 4 (5.5): Climb up featured rock through the next bulge, belay at rings.
Pitch 5 (5.4): Water groovin' to a tree. Pitches four and five can be barely combined with a 70m rope.

Protection 

Bolts. A very light rack could be carried to mitigate any runouts.


Photos of North By Northwest Slideshow Add Photo
Alesha Reardon close to the top of North by Northwest- a fun, easy climb. 5.7 maybe
Alesha Reardon close to the top of North by Northw...

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By Mike Reardon
Jul 28, 2012

This route is about 10 minutes further downhill from pistol pete. It is not quit the leftmost route though.
By Cody Ashe
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good easy climb for begginners. Third pitch is the crux, but I feel a 5.7 would be a more accurate rating. Great Belay points on the whole route.
By TJ Souther
From: Brevard, NC
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hiked all the way in and every route on Stone Depot was wet or icy except this one, we climbed the first 4 pitches but the last pitch was covered in ice so we backed off of it. Just as well it looked as if you could pretty much walk up it. The route does offer excellent views of Looking Glass and John's Rock but as far as the climbing goes it basically has one or two moves on the third pitch that require some finesse (it definitely feels soft to be a 5.8), the rest of it is stupidly easy, although it would be excellent for beginners or to rehearse multi-pitch skills.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You don't need a 70m to link pitches. We did it with a 60m no problem. Thanks to Mike's book for the beta.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Be aware that P5 is longer than what the new guidebook says. A 70m rope was not long enough to rap from the trees back to the P4 anchor. Our friends had to get creative to extend the rope.....

Link P1/P2 and P3/P4 together with a 60m rope then rap off.
By Mark Wilkerson
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Feb 11, 2014

You definitely need a 70m rope to link the last two pitches together. We tried it with a 60 and my partner ended up about five feet short of the anchors.