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|Location:||37.5926, -119.0145 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||littlemike on Jun 26, 2008|
|re: The Erik Sloan ethics thread||Tim Lutz||8 hours ago|
|Tahoe Bouldering Wall?||PRHenner||13 hours ago|
|Castle Rock Partners||Cat Salvatore||2 days ago|
|re: 15/16 Ice Conditions||climbing coastie||4 days ago|
|re: Bishop this weekend- best spots for cold weather climbing||Rob Gordon||5 days ago|
|re: PSA: AIARE avalanche courses at Lake Tahoe Community College||Tapawingo||5 days ago|
|re: ignore||Rude Boy||6 days ago|
|Ride to bishop. Thursday or friday||paddyrock||6 days ago|
|Comments on North Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 26, 2008
Some small bits of clarification may be in order for this route. Did it for the second time with littlemike June 08. Lots of variations here for the start. As littlemike says, the chimney is the way I've done it but the picture shows the face to the left of the chimney. If you are short in height, exiting the chimney may add a grade. Venturing right off the arete has more loose rock and more 4th class. I've climbed to the right above the shown belay #2 in a large chute to the right of the column which has a nice platform at its top. The move out of the chute and onto the platform is nice. Watch the loose rock in the chute. Traversing left off the column platform on a small ledge takes you to some wonderful exposed 5.5 friction climbing before the shown belay #3. If you bail after the rap from the first peak, take it from me...stay skiers LEFT going down the LOOSE rock. You will thank me.
By El Andy
From: El Portal, CA
Oct 18, 2010
My partner and I were climbing this route on 10-16-10 and she lost her shoes somewhere along the ridge traverse. The shoes must have come unclipped from her harness ('doh, no locker!)
They were trail runner shoes on a green/gold 'biner.
If noones finds them in the next week I imagine the snow will cover them up until next Spring.
Email me at email@example.com if you find them.
p.s. It was my partner's first multi-pitch and she not only rocked the climb but she simul-climbed the ridge. Woo Hoo!
This is a GREAT route!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
May 3, 2012
|I thought the highlight of the route was the ridge traverse. That was fun and certainly pushing 5th in places.|
Aug 21, 2013
This peak really does have wonderful top-10-in-the-world easy narrow-ridge arete climbing on good granite. Unfortunately many parties end their climb at the Middle summit and descend the W face from near the notch between the Middle and (highest) South summits. But that's where the great arete climbing starts.
To make sure to get to do the great arete climbing on this peak (and without so much loose rock), try this route .
Note that many more Comments and a better find-the-start Photo for North Arete route are on this MountainProject page .