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North Arete T 

North Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jerry Gallwas, Wally Kodis, Don Wilson. September, 1954
Season: Spring
Page Views: 8,524
Submitted By: Jake Burkey on Jun 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo

Description 

From Twin Lakes hike south along the Horse Creek Trail, when it heads up and left keep going south along Horse Creeek, at about 8600' cut right and head up steep terrain towards the peak. Limited campsites.

The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected. The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock. Once on the summit ridge, move toward the southwest and trend up toward the summit.

About 7 pitches. (A direct start start, 5.9, begins at the toe of the buttress). Hike up left of the toe of the buttress and follow a CL4 corner and ramp to a large ledge at the top of the direct start (2 pitches, 5.7).For about 2 pitches stay right of the buttress (5.7), then pass through a notch, and trend left towards the finishing corner (see photo, or climb arete to left to avoid masochism), left of the main arete (3 pitches 5.7). Final steep crack is the crux.

The ridge to the summit is then followed for about 2 pitches.

Descent: Head down to the east gully, and follow it either on loose scree, or nice snow depending upon the season.

Protection 

There are no bolts or fixed anchors. Bring a full rack, up to the size of a #3 Camalot.


Photos of North Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Corner pitch near the top of the climb.
Corner pitch near the top of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: somewhere around the 3rd pitch
somewhere around the 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the couloir over to the start of the Nort...
Crossing the couloir over to the start of the Nort...
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen shredding down from the East Couloir (green) ...
Owen shredding down from the East Couloir (green) ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from near the summit
Looking down from near the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Zee same photo of zee same corner near zee top. Th...
Zee same photo of zee same corner near zee top. Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch - we encountered a stuck cam here, so ...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch - we encountered a stuck cam here, so ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Start of first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading final pitch up 5.7 corner.  Pic by Just...
Me leading final pitch up 5.7 corner. Pic by Just...
Rock Climbing Photo: top of what I think is the 4th pitch in the topo. ...
top of what I think is the 4th pitch in the topo. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Pribik leading the awesome 5.7 finish pitch ...
Peter Pribik leading the awesome 5.7 finish pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: just before the final 3rd class to the summit
just before the final 3rd class to the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Pribik on the summit of Matterhorn Peak, wit...
Peter Pribik on the summit of Matterhorn Peak, wit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen finishing up the first pitch
Owen finishing up the first pitch

Comments on North Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 26, 2006

Jake, I've upgraded it to 5.7. There used to be a fixed pin in the final crack, perhaps it's gone.
By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 1, 2010

Note that Fiddler & Moynier's Climbing California's High Sierra: The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice has a diagram that shows this route starting from the opposite couloir (west) instead of east. Secor and supertopo show it starting from the east couloir, so that's what we did.

Having a #4 on the last pitch was good, as it widens out in places, but I'm sure the more accomplished wide fetishists can do without :)
By c-gator
From: N California
Sep 8, 2015

Felt harder than 5.7 in places, but maybe that's because we couldn't feel our fingers due to the biting gusts. A BD #4 was nice to have for a couple of moves including the short section of off width on pitch 4, which isn't shown in this mtn project topo photo.

Approach and start beta: No snow on the approach in Sept 2015 (low snow year). For the last section of the approach going up the loose east gully stay on the far left (east) side of the gully as long as possible, then cut right to the NE face of Matterhorn below the start of the climb. This keeps you on more solid scree. The start is indistinct. It's ~75 ft up the gully from the big corner. Scramble ~15ft up 4th class to the ramp shown in the photo by rhyang on Aug 1, 2010.

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