|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Jerry Gallwas, Wally Kodis, Don Wilson. September, 1954|
|Submitted By:||Jake Burkey on Jun 25, 2006|
|Comments on North Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 26, 2006
|Jake, I've upgraded it to 5.7. There used to be a fixed pin in the final crack, perhaps it's gone.|
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 1, 2010
Note that Fiddler & Moynier's Climbing California's High Sierra: The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice has a diagram that shows this route starting from the opposite couloir (west) instead of east. Secor and supertopo show it starting from the east couloir, so that's what we did.
Having a #4 on the last pitch was good, as it widens out in places, but I'm sure the more accomplished wide fetishists can do without :)
From: N California
Sep 8, 2015
Felt harder than 5.7 in places, but maybe that's because we couldn't feel our fingers due to the biting gusts. A BD #4 was nice to have for a couple of moves including the short section of off width on pitch 4, which isn't shown in this mtn project topo photo.
Approach and start beta: No snow on the approach in Sept 2015 (low snow year). For the last section of the approach going up the loose east gully stay on the far left (east) side of the gully as long as possible, then cut right to the NE face of Matterhorn below the start of the climb. This keeps you on more solid scree. The start is indistinct. It's ~75 ft up the gully from the big corner. Scramble ~15ft up 4th class to the ramp shown in the photo by rhyang on Aug 1, 2010.