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North and West Faces

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better than Bitter S 
Broken Thumb T 
cTr S 
Diminishing Returns T 
Falling Apart at the Seams T 
Flamin' Freddie T 
Guilt Trip T 
Hollow Man S 
Nuthin' Tuff T 
On a Whim T 
Pins and Knickers T 
Tuff Enough T 
Tuff'n Up S 
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 
Wrecking Ball S 
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North and West Faces  

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Page Views: 38,782
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 27, 2007
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This area provides access to a plethora of climbs. Many of these climbs date back to the 40's when Harold Goodro and the Alpenbock members climbed here extensively. You may still find old remnants of slings around trees and rusted, bent-over pitons. It is the hope of some climbers that some of these unused museum pieces stay right where they are, as a natural museum showcase where some of the Wasatch's earliest pioneers went to seek adventure.

In the late 80s, rap-and-drill definitely made one of its initial entries into the Wasatch in this very area. New route activity boomed. On many of these routes people were expected to still utilize the natural gear placements. Placing gear on these mixed BCC routes can be trying and requires a learned skill.

A renewed interest in this area seems to be going on just lately. Always expect to see other climbers here. Try to share the routes and it should go without saying please TR off your own locking carabiners and rappel instead of lower off the chains to increase their shelf life! This is also a safety consideration as well!

The rock is quartzite, typical for Big Cottonwood Canyon, which may present itself as somewhat dirty, but cleans up well with traffic. And that is something that the popular routes see in this area in particular....lots of traffic. Very popular with the "after work" crowd and those seeking a pump in the evening sun.

Getting There 

Park as for any of the climbing in the Stairs Gulch area. Hike up the very nice trail west of the streambed and walk around the first buttress one encounters on the right. This is the Challenge Buttress. 10 minute approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North and West Faces:
Hollow Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Flamin' Freddie   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
cTr   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Better than Bitter   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Broken Thumb   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Guilt Trip   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wrecking Ball   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Falling Apart at the Seams   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 95'   
Tuff'n Up   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in North and West Faces

Featured Route For North and West Faces
Derek squeezing in a morning climb.

Better than Bitter 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : North and West Faces
Above Winky and Waxman Go Bolting is this newer bolted route. It follows the bolts to chains and is well-protected and exposed. This is Hollow Man on steroids. A great route, a must-do route... Enjoy jamming around that chockstone. This climb is similar to Hollow Man in the sense that it is pretty consistent and very vertical to slightly overhanging; it differs in the sense that there is a harder move and it has way more exposure. Do this route!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
May 22, 2011
Does anyone know what the route that climbs the face and arete 5 feet left of Tough Enough? Feels like mid .10? Starts the same as Tough Enough, then moves left to a short but sweeeet juggy overhang, then passes two bolts as it follows the arete to chains just left of the Tough Enough crack. First piece was a .75?(red link cam) at the start of Tough Enough, then went left to climb the steep section to get to the first bolt. I thought it was a great climb, and great addition to the area. I can't believe I have never seen it until today. Hoping to find out who put it up and what the rating is?!
By grk10vq
May 22, 2011
Broken Thumb
By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
May 23, 2011
Ah, hah! Paying attention would probably help. Thanks!
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