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North America Wall 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C3

   
Type:  Aid, 28 pitches, 2400', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C3 [details]
FA: Robbins, Pratt, Chouinard, Frost
Page Views: 8,002
Submitted By: Ryan Huetter on Nov 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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John "Yabo" Yablonski hanging out waiting for us t...

Description 

An old school classic, the NA Wall was the first route to be climbed on the Southeast Face of El Cap, and skirts the large diorite blob resembling North America. This also means that it follows a rather wandering line up through the black diorite. There is loose rock, sketchy free climbing, and some funky aid, but all in all, this is a great line which visits some amazing places on the wall. Big Sur Ledge, Cyclops Eye, and the Igloo are all good bivies. Be prepared for many penjis and lower-outs, and have your free climbing hat on for many pitches. It's a bit heady in spots.


Location 

Southeast face of El Cap. Walk up from the Nose, past the Alcove, route starts from flat grassy area out of the trees.


Protection 

2-3 baby sawed off angles for handplacing
a few peckers
hooks, bring big hook
alien offsets
cams to 5"
Extra lower out line (minimum 150ft.)



Photos of North America Wall Slideshow Add Photo
John "Yabo" Yablonski leading the pitch out of the Black Cave.
John "Yabo" Yablonski leading the pitch out of the...
John "Yabo" Yablonski hanging out at the base of the Black Dihedral (I think?)  Those fine pants and EB's are all mine!
John "Yabo" Yablonski hanging out at the base of t...
Rob jugging the Borderline Traverse pitch off Big Sur.
Rob jugging the Borderline Traverse pitch off Big ...
November Ascent, 1977 <br />First Pitch <br /> <br />Weathered a ferocious storm in BAT and Forrest Hammocks, anchored to nine large-angle pins, one pitch below the Black Cave exit pitch.  Partway through our storm day, we re-hammered every pin in the overhung cracks, and indeed they seemed to have loosened a bit.    <br /> <br />Climber belaying (hippy afro) is DJ from New England. Peter, from New Mexico is leading.    <br /> <br />We amassed the required iron writing IOUs to friends in Camp IV, leaving us with enough cash for good food and an OZ from Merced Lake.
November Ascent, 1977
First Pitch

Weathered a fer...
Rob on the "C3 Junk" pitch 20 on NA Wall.
Rob on the "C3 Junk" pitch 20 on NA Wall.
Mike Lechlinski and John "Yabo" Yablonski packing up the junk at the Black Cave bivy.
Mike Lechlinski and John "Yabo" Yablonski packing ...
North America Wall, El Capitan.
North America Wall, El Capitan.
Comments on North America Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Jan 15, 2009

This route's reputation for loose rock is a bit behind the times. You can find it, but the only time I felt like there was loose stuff of consequence was when we were dragging our bags across the bottom of the Cyclops' Eye with a party 1500' below. The adventuresome feel comes more from the wandering line and frequent switching between free and aid climbing amidst the vast architecture of the North America feature. And from the detritus of 40+ years of ascents- there's some funky old stuff up there!

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 18, 2010

I've posted some vintage pics (see above) from when we (Me, Mike Lechlinski and John Yablonski) did this route.
The year had to be like 1981/2? Fairly uneventful except for the fact when Yabo joined the crew he brought no food or water and the stuff in his haul bag was just clothes and personal items with no caloric or hydration value. Needless to say we ran out of food and water fairly quickly, oh, and it was a heat wave that week as every day was well over 100 in the Valley. We thought we were gonna die.
After about 2 days of only getting a tuna can full of water twice a day, we ended up tossing all our bivy gear at about pitch 20. This jettison included ledges, extra ropes, sleeping bags, and everything else not needed to actually climb. Now was the time for a mad dash for the summit. We made it to the top that evening, even though on the summit slabs Lechlinski had to basically free solo off, completely without a belay, trailing two ropes tied together since we were off route.... and then finally lower the cords back down to me an Yabo as we waited, with exactly zero ropes or gear, on top of the Igloo Block.

Besides all that, it was fairly casual and I would recommend the route.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012

FCA: Dougald MacDonald, Chris McNamara, 1997

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 11, 2012

As of 9/2012 there was not the loads of fixed gear I was expecting. The route was much more involved than what it looks like on paper. We hand placed a few sawed-offs, one tomahawk, and hammered back in one "fixed" lost arrow on the last pitch. The aid is never too difficult but there are some do-not-fall places that have less than inspiring gear. There is loose rock but it is pretty easy to avoid most of the time.

To the above rack would agree on having a #5 camalot or equivalent, 1 large hook, a bat hook, and a 100ft lower-out line for the bags. We used a long piece of 6mm cord to lower out as the 2nd on many pitches.

A classic line with many classic features and bivies. Besides a few amazing exceptions the climbing is 'meh'.