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Albinestone S 
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Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

Normandy 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Ramier, 2012
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Normandy

Description 


Prepare for battle.

Multiple cruxes requiring a variety of skills. This route overhangs 20' feet over 90' and stays dry even in a steady rain once it has stopped seeping after the winter months.

Fun climbing on clean rock with mind blowing exposure.

Use a 70-m rope and be careful while lowering off.

Location 

The route starts off of a large boulder just at the end of the Perverse Traverse and just left of Heaven's Rear Entry Vehicle POBTAZ. There is a lone bolt on a rock below near the top edge of the lower cliff that makes a good belay position when it's not raining. From here it is possible for the belayer to see the entire climb.

Protection 

12-14 quick draws and a #2 Camalot.


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By derekpearson
May 4, 2013

What is POBTAZ Jon?
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 5, 2013

The rest of the route name is Parked Out Back, Tow-Away Zone. Or, POBTAZ for short.
By braddean
May 29, 2013

You know how index is pretty much the best crag in the country?

This route is as good as any I have done there (And I have done A LOT of them).

Seriously. Get on it. Rad, interesting sequences, great exposure, super-safe and bone-dry in the rain (except for one hold and that just makes the move more interesting!).

Anyway, this route is one of the best at Index, which would make it one of the best in the country. Do yourself a favor if you like climbing rocks and make this the next thing you get on. Can't wait to do it again!
By braddean
May 29, 2013

I am pretty sure that a 60m will get you down, but DO tie a knot in the end of the rope.
Also...

This route is classic! If it were at the lower wall it would be as popular as anything else.

-b
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
May 29, 2013

Brad -- Great to hear the high ratings for the route.

So, there's a good chance I'll up the stars once I do the route. Am looking forward to that. But first, I'll have to get up my first Index 12. (Chris Henson says this one is not the easiest one at Index, not that I'm necessarily looking for the easiest, but I couldn't even get up Engines of Archimedes...)
By kimmo
Jul 23, 2013

Someone said Tom did the FA just using gear, but added bolts so others would climb it.
By MorganH
Oct 3, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Pretty awesome climbing, but quite hard and cryptic at the roof. It took a really long time to get the rope up. The rock is still a little flaky at the bottom, but should clean up with time. If the route was a little cleaner and more continuous, I would give it four stars.
By Chris Kalman
May 21, 2014

Even for Index... this is a HUGE sandbag. It's freaking awesome climbing though. One bolt is placed a little awkwardly to the left (I think it's the 3rd).