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Jagged Mountain
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Normal Route T 

Normal Route 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,748
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Aug 18, 2005

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The north face of Jagged.

Description 

The route starts just to the right of the large snow filled gully. We went straight up some wet rock ledges that ended at a 20 foot corner ~5.5. The easier way we found on the way down is to cut left up toward the gully on an angling ramp (4th class ramp described in guide books?) that was somewhat wet grimy but pretty easy, and even had mountain goat tracks on it. From here, it's easy grass up to below the upper cliffs, traverse right behind a small detached block, across the top of a gully (we went down this on the descent) and continue up grass and rock ledges at the base of the summit cliffs. Eventually, you hit the short rock step below the notch. There was a longer (30-40 feet) crack in a corner, and around the corner farther, a 20 foot section with a couple groove type features (5.2 section). We went up this, I didn't really notice any decent gear, but it is short, with a big, but sloping ledge below, and there was a slung block to anchor to. From here, go up to the notch, and start traversing back left on exposed ledges. There's one spot where you step around a corner with a straight drop directly below, this was the only place besides the rock step we used the rope. Right after this, there's an easy chimney back up left, then easy scrambling with one tricky move to the summit. On the way down, we found an 8 foot slot at the top of the final chimney to go down to avoid the exposed step around, and made a short rap down the 5.2 rock step. There's also two bolts on the summit to rap off the north side with two ropes.

Protection 

We used a 50 foot 7 mm cord, a few slings, and one medium-sized nut.


Photos of Normal Route Slideshow Add Photo
North side of Jagged.
BETA PHOTO: North side of Jagged.
John Prater downclimbing the final chimney section.
John Prater downclimbing the final chimney section...
The traverse across the South Face just before the final summit chimney pitch.
The traverse across the South Face just before the...
Clawing the grass at the top of the offroute 5.5 corner.
Clawing the grass at the top of the offroute 5.5 c...
Mostly blocky scrambling.
Mostly blocky scrambling.
North Face route on Jagged Mountain.  Photo taken July 2, 2006.
BETA PHOTO: North Face route on Jagged Mountain. Photo taken ...
Mike rapping from the slings atop the second crux.  13 August, 2005.
Mike rapping from the slings atop the second crux....
John Prater in the notch on Jagged where the standard route traverses onto the South face.
John Prater in the notch on Jagged where the stand...
Some decent looking splitters.
Some decent looking splitters.

Comments on Normal Route Add Comment
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By Lee Smith
Sep 11, 2005

According to Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" (a must have book for all Colorado mountaineers) the first ascent was in August of 1933 and was a team of San Juan Mountaineers including Carelton Long, H.L. McClintok, Mel Griffiths, Dwight Lavender and Lewis Giesecke. The present day ascent route was actually a descent pioneered by William House and Elizabeth Woolsey in 1934.
By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 10, 2008
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

Trip report from our climb of July 2, 2006.
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Apr 6, 2011

Anyone hear of a complete traverse of the summits on this peak?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Apr 6, 2011

I recall Mike Vanderbeek reminiscing at an Outward Bound resupply about how he had to go around or downclimb parts of this traverse, or miss some summits altogether. At least I think it was him. Him or Marcus Brown. Whoever it was, they did not ascend the spire on the east end. I've gone from the Noname/Jagged pass along the ridge to the summit. As far as the whole thing, including the spire, I have not heard.
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 7, 2011

Did the car-to-car solo from Vallecito TH. Fun and long day...just about 18hrs.