|Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Todd Gordon, Dana Adler, Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Brian Haslam, Susan Alford, March 1995|
|Page Views: ||1,140|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Nathan Fitzhugh just passing the last bolt. 10-29-...
Add Photo Add Comment Printer View
Start up a short section of smooth slab with a jagged crack to reach a small roof/overlap (#1 TCU/green Alien here) about 15' up, above which is the first of five bolts. The climb moves slightly right after the second bolt to reach a shallow corner, which is followed up to a small mantleshelf and the third bolt. Above, climb through a lower-angled section and pass a dubious "fixed rurp" before the wall steepens and enjoyable smearing and liebacking on the edge of the flake continues past two more bolts to anchors. The rock is a fine grained gray with the occasional knob, which is a pleasant departure from the more typical oatmeal-colored rock.
This is a fun climb that rarely sees traffic due to it's location on the less popular left side of the DQ Wall. A pleasant area to explore that has an easier and shorter approach than the more frequented right side of the wall. Two stars out of five.
This route is located on the far left side of the Dairy Queen Wall about 50' left of Leap Year Flake, and is identified as a bolted face climb up the face/arete of a large flake lying against the main formation.
5 bolts (5/16", 3/8"), "fixed rurp", bolted anchor/rap. Optional .4"-.5" cam
Very exciting lead.
Check out this photo...Where the 3 bushes are left...
Nathan Fitzhugh 10-29-11
|By C Miller|
Aug 26, 2004
The majority of the bolts are 5/16" but solid and in good rock.
|By tony grice|
May 2, 2006
awsome route!! well protected, fun moves. A .5 camalot could proctect the opening moves if you should need it.
Sep 25, 2006
A undistinctive route not worth the 3 stars in JTWest.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Fun but not as good as Leap Erikson IMHO.
|By Isaac T.|
From: Rockville, MD
Dec 30, 2008
Falcon Guide Jtree West (pg 332) shows the route going all the way to the top of the formation. The route does not go all the way to the top, rather it stops below and left of the highest tree.
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 14, 2013
Climbed today. There is now a fixed angle piton driven up under the initial overlap, negating the need for a small cam. Higher up, the fixed rurp is gone. Looks like someone may have whipped on it and broken it out of the seam? Anyway, there is now a quite spicy and somewhat serious runout between bolts 3 and 4.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Feb 14, 2013
I wouldn't trust my life or ankles to that fixed pin. I believe it's fallen out in the past.
Back it up.
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 18, 2013
Yellow Alien or slightly smaller (0.5" would be too big) for the downward pointing flake, next to the fixed pin, to protect the 1st bolt clip.
Solid black Alien near top of diagonal feature above 2nd bolt, and a marginal BD #4 stopper placed edgewise just before clipping the 3rd bolt.
|By Russ Walling|
Jul 21, 2013
Did it today. Didn't think much of the route as it is sorta contrived and forced.
Besides that, the RURP is gone, the "runout" is not really a runout, and it is on easy ground. The clip at the end of the runout is sorta awkward and the bolt should be down a half move so you can clip from a secure stance.... the pin at the start should be backed up and depending on where you actually surmount the roof will dictate the grade. It seemed like you could make it 12b or 5.8 depending on how low you wanted to set the bar by moving right.
All in all it is an ok route for a forced, contrived, squeeze job that at some point got archaic points for having a fixed RURP. WTF. I'll go a full .68 stars on this one.
|By Larry Graham|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2014
Mar 13, 2014 I just did this today. For the record, the route as shown in the Classic JT Routes book (Vogel 2010) is quite inaccurate. The written description is right on, but the line drawn on both pages 122 and 124 show it moving quite far to the left and finishing well above where it actually does--the tree that is level with the start of Pat Adams dihedral. Otherwise, this "new" guide to Josh is outstanding and though pricey, worth it.