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Noob climber visting France. "You wouldn't enjoy Fountainbleu". True?



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By Christopher M
From Santa Monica, CA
Jan 27, 2011

Ive been climbing for a few months and have an awesome opportunity to go to france to climb with a friend of mine (who is a much more experienced climber).

Since he has never been to France either we are wondering where to go?

Given our different skill levels we probably want to focus on bouldering. Unfortunately, I am not very strong yet, and only boulder around a V2.

We are really excited about vising Fountainbleu, but I asked someone about it and they told me: "Fb is a hard bouldering area. I am not sure if a V2 climber will enjoy it..". Is this accurate? or Is he just being elitist?

Any other suggestions as to where we should go. Ideally areas near Paris, but we are willing to travel.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Jan 27, 2011

Do you boulder V2 indoor or out? If it's outdoors, I say go for it. If you're be in Paris anyways, why the heck not?

There's tons of circuit, even for easier climbs. I wouldn't be lulled into thinking that you have to boulder heinous 7b slopers to go and have a good time. Plus, the chateau nearby looks really cool.


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By Scott Hansen
From Denver, Co
Jan 27, 2011
Teton beer

Bus loads of school children find plenty upon which to play. It is totally worth the trip and you'll have plenty to climb.


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By Cor
Jan 27, 2011
black nasty

as said above... GO!

sure there are awesome hard problems, but equally as many
mid range, and easy problems. short, tall, big, little...

the royal hunting castle is a cool place to tour, with
peacocks strolling around the gardens outside.

the night life, and food in font. is awesome as well.

some of the lesser known areas are also good, and you can
walk to a few from town. otherwise hitchhike, taxi, or
rent a car.

even if it rains in the morning, then stops, go out!

have fun,
cor

ps: don't forget to stop at the three important types of stores
before heading to the forest each day. they are a bread shop,
a cheese shop, and a wine shop! ahhh....


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By RockinOut
From NY, NY
Jan 27, 2011
Gear

Go For It! You`ll find routes/problems to climb and will end up with some projects in France...giving you a reason to go back. Nothing better than being 1 move away from sending a route and then not being able to finish it on your last day. That will eat away at you until you go back and send it....what a better excuse to trsavel then to send the damn route


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By Christopher Jones
From Denver, Colorado
Jan 27, 2011
Climbing So Wild at Thunder Ridge photo by Kevin McLaughlin.

If you fall and get hurt you can get all fixed up for free!


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By beavs
From Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 27, 2011

My wife and I spent a couple days there without a guidebook and we speak zero French. We just wandered around the forest and climbed the best looking boulders, we had a blast. It sure seemed like there were plenty of problems at all grades so I agree with everyone, just go! From what I recall Fountainbleu was pretty much the only destination worthy crag close to Paris, most of the good stuff is down south (I could be wrong about this but that limestone down there is worth the drive anyway!)


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By Christopher M
From Santa Monica, CA
Jan 27, 2011

awesome guys thanks for the encouragement! Can't wait!

Also if dont hesitate to post if you have other recommendations for crags to hit up.


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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 27, 2011
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard

Have those naysayers actually been to 'Bleau? There are TONS of moderates! It's one of the best bouldering areas on the friggin' planet. Go and enjoy.


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By Robin Close
From Columbia, Maryland
Jan 27, 2011

Do it! My wife and I were there for a couple days this summer, and I would recommend it to anyone. Not only is it now my favorite bouldering area, but I'd put it over any trad or sport area I've been to as well. There's a HUGE variety of problems, so don't worry about not finding anything to do. We didn't use a guide or anything, just walked around the Trois Pignons area and got on whatever looked good. The sand was so deep for many of the landings that we were totally comfortable without a crash pad.

In town, the Chateau is really worth the few hours it takes to tour it. There are also plenty of good places to eat and drink in the same area. We actually stayed in a bed & breakfast overlooking a pedestrian street full of bars and restaurants. Drink a bottle of Pelforth Brune for me!


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By HoseBeats
Jan 27, 2011

Font is one of the places I could see taking a group of all skill levels. Each area has amazing problems in all grades. v2, v6, v10, or v14 the forest has plenty fun stuff to climb. Go fo' sho', eat lots of good cheese, bread, and cheap good wine.


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 27, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Christopher M wrote:
We are really excited about vising Fountainbleu, but I asked someone about it and they told me: "Fb is a hard bouldering area. I am not sure if a V2 climber will enjoy it..". Is this accurate? or Is he just being elitist? Any other suggestions as to where we should go. Ideally areas near Paris, but we are willing to travel.


If your psyched on Font, then, go to Font. Gobs and gobs of stuff at the V2 and under level.

My bet is that it can be hot there in the summer, and, cold in the winter, so, might depend more on when you're planning to visit France.

I'm not into bouldering, but, Fontainebleau is on my list of places to visit. So much history. I'd do a short trip there for sure.

That said, if I had the opportunity to climb somewhere in France, I'd probably pick a rock climbing destination that had a bit more variety (single and multi pitch routes). Tons of places to go. But, if you have to be in/near Paris, then, Font would be the spot. Bit of a drive to get anywhere else, but, you can take the TGV to Lyon then the local train from there south, and, be in a number of places.

What time of year are you planning your visit?


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By Christopher M
From Santa Monica, CA
Jan 27, 2011

Brian in SLC wrote:
What time of year are you planning your visit?


We will be going in May.


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 28, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Christopher M wrote:
We will be going in May.


Are you going to have access to a car?

Do you have to be in/near Paris?

May is a great time to go to the Calanques and that area in Provence.

Bit early to crag up high but places in the Vercors would be ok, Corsica, Orpierre, St. Victoire, etc. Most of the large crags in France have a variety of grades (exception might be Ceuse, but, there's a via ferrata apparently that might work).

The world is your oyster...


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By Zach Allen
Jan 28, 2011

Whoever told you that is either completely clueless, or a jerk. You will have a blast there as a new climber. There are literally thousands of problems in the V2 and under range. You don't even really need a guidebook, just follow the color coded circuits.

I got a map from the fontainbleau tourist center that was helpful in finding the different areas. Bas Cuvier is a great place to start - easy access and a good concentration of problems.
Have fun!


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By BertrandL
From Massachusetts
Jan 28, 2011
Bleau / cul de chien

I guess the problem is that the style (lots of slopers, etc) can be quite different from what you or your friends are used to, which can make the grades feel a bit stiff. Plus in the most popular areas some of the holds have been highly polished by heavy use and became slippery as hell (be considerate and clean the sand off your shoes).

That said, there are indeed plenty of easy & moderate circuits and problems, even for kids. Picking a detailed map of the forest would help (the ones edited by IGN, which can be found e.g. at the newspaper seller next to the chateau). Check bleau.info for more info.


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By PatrickV
Jan 28, 2011
mexico

Whoever said don't go because it is a "hard" bouldering area simply doesn't know what they are talking about. The grades might be a little stiff, and the style is very technical, but there are thousands of problems v2 and under. Not just mediocre problems either, really really good problems at that level which is a rarity in many bouldering areas. Not to mention you will hanging out with locals and their families, it is a unique way to see french life. By all means go!!

-Patrick


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By Christopher M
From Santa Monica, CA
Jan 29, 2011

Brian in SLC wrote:
Are you going to have access to a car? Do you have to be in/near Paris?


Yes we will have a car. No we don't have to stay near Paris. I mentioned that because we will be spending a good amt of time around Paris, but we also have time to travel.

My climbing buddy also really loves limestone if we can find any out there ;)


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By Christopher M
From Santa Monica, CA
May 30, 2011

Had an amazing time =)

Ended up only doing bouldering in Fontainebleau, as my friend had to cut the second half of the trip short. But Fontainebleau was absolutely amazing, and there was enough rock there to spend a lifetime, and *plenty* at my skill level. What an amazing place =)

Stayed at the gite La Chapelle la Reine which I highly recommend.


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