NoName 5 aka Roadside Attraction 5.8
| 1,539 page views
Good page?   |
BETA PHOTO
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Route-5 has two very short pitches. Begin exactly where the trail meets the cliff. The upper pitch is far and away the better of the two.
Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: This short route is the first you arrive at from the parking area at Puoux. Apparently for a long time it was rated as 5.8 or 5.9. However, apparently a good amount has been chipped off, since this is a solid 5.10a as listed in the most current guide. You can link this with the pitch above it (another short 5.10a) with a 60 meter rope. Easily located, but super waxy holds!
This is a combination of 2 submissions for the route.
Location Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: It is easy to locate as it is the first route you'll see once you get onto the trail from the parking lot. You can scramble down from the top if you don't want to rap or be lowered.
Protection Several draws and a rope. Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: 3 bolts, long draws if you TR. Per Mahjoe: 4 bolts.
First pitch.
|
Me on the 2nd pitch.
|
Mi padre pitch 1.
|
Getting ready to start.
|
Milking a solid rest at an obvious hand jam.
|
End of Roadside Attraction.
|
BETA PHOTO: The Ballerina, Roadside Attraction, and an Unnamed...
|
BETA PHOTO: Following up.
| |
| Comments on NoName 5 aka Roadside Attraction |
|
By L. Hamilton
Aug 9, 2002
| First pitch is steep and juggy but polished, felt closer to 5.9 than 5.8. Second pitch is prettier, not polished, and easier than the first. It's not hard to combine both in one lead. |
By A concerned citizen
Apr 20, 2004
rating: 5.8+
| P1 is short and mostly 5.8 with a .8+ move near the top, being a painful hand jam crux. Can easily combine both pitches with a 60 meter rope, however the second pitch is much harder than the first, going at 9 or 9+. |
By jasonRFV
Apr 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+
| Someone's been busy on this route (Roadside Attraction)...it has been modified sometime since late last fall. The culprit chopped some handy-dandy edges & ledges at the (once) thoughtful opening moves, and at the (once) crux move at the top of P2 (Roadrunner). They also saw it necessary to knock a couple into the middle of the Roadrunner pitch, amidst a sea of great, sharp limestone edges. I suspect "they" may be manufacturing an easy M climb, though I'm not sure why; the tell tale crampon scratches on P1 are pretty hard to miss. Maybe they were trying to make the climb go at a true 5.8 (I would argue that the original line went harder than 5.8). As local ice and rock climbers, my partners and I are pretty upset by this retro-chipping. Sure, some routes at the Puoux are known to be chipped, and Roadside Attraction is nowhere near a classic route, but it does not change the principle: it's not ok to alter the rock to your ability or desires. There are quality natural routes up there, and it would be a shame to see them defaced as well. |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 12, 2009
| The third bolt was replaced and the first two bolts were updated and moved slightly with permission of the first ascentionist. New stainless steel hardware was from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.
Here's the link to the discussion about this route's bolts (forum post) . Check it out if you want to see what happened to the third bolt. |
By Mahjoe
Aug 28, 2012
| 4 bolts, not 3. |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow
