Non trade-route moderates in the red?
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Hello, |
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Sundog, Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III (instead of Solar Slab) |
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Scott McLeod wrote:Hello, I am coming down this weekend from SLC and was curious if anyone had recommendations for moderate trad climbs (5.5-5.8) that are off the beaten path so the weekend wont be spent waiting behind tons of parties and waking up at the crack of dawn. ... probably be a plus to do routes that are not overly long, 3-5 pitchesSome good suggestions already, but here are a few more. Lady Luck just recently done, euphoria-inducing, 7-pitches. Climbing is almost all easy on very friendly rock. All the other routes on the First Creek Slabs are good, too. South Face never seems crowded, especially Windy Corner or Hot Fudge Thursday. In the Solar Slab area, there is never a line for Heliotrope and it might be the best route up there. Of course, you won't be far from the crowds, and you'll be doing a lot more than 5 pitches. If you head up to do Olive Oil and find crowds (very likely) you can continue to One-Armed Bandit. Across the canyon there are Guppies on Ritalin, Minnows on Mescaline and a few other routes that haven't made it into the database yet. The nearby MysterZ is very pleasant and relaxed, and does not seem to get a lot of traffic yet. Rose Hips might be worth a look as well. Spare Rib is pretty good, although a bit of a hike. |
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Black Velvet Canyon |
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Wow, |
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Desert Rock Sports is the local climbing store. Charleston and Cimmaron |
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If you are burning propane, there is a Home Depot on that same stretch of Charleston that has welding supplies. |
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It always boggles my mind when I see people replying to this type of inquiry. |
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lin wrote:It always boggles my mind when I see people replying to this type of inquiry. Not to sound like a jerk, but if you post to this type of inquiry then eventually all the routes where you used to be able escape the crowds will be filled with crowds. Who else sees it that way? When I visit RR I always talk with other people at the campground and which ever routes are talked about the most I know to avoid.Perhaps not everyone who climbs at RR constantly scours over this site. There are tons of obscure climbs here; some are rad and some suck. Getting together to figure out the cool ones seems pretty worthwhile to me. Black Widow Hollow is a lesser known 5.9 that I really like. It climbs good rock and has an easy approach/descent and I have posted this more than once online. Despite my posting this I highly doubt there will be any crowds on it tomorrow. |
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lin wrote:It always boggles my mind when I see people replying to this type of inquiry. Not to sound like a jerk, but if you post to this type of inquiry then eventually all the routes where you used to be able escape the crowds will be filled with crowds. Who else sees it that way? When I visit RR I always talk with other people at the campground and which ever routes are talked about the most I know to avoid.Lin, guess what I think this site might exist for...... this exact reasson, so climbers can comunicate with each other. Peep the main page "beyond the guide book" duh! I climb here regularly, I'm pretty sure there is enough routes to go around. Scott, Check Angel Food wall easy approach and all the routes are really close. |
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Arron and Josh, don't get you panties so knotted up. Obviously you do wear them or you wouldn't get so bent over another point of view expressed on an open forum. |
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Off the beaten track and well worth the long hike in is Cat Walk 5.8. |
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another great route suggestion from Lin.....yeah way to contribute! When you put a question mark at the end of a sentence it implies a question, you asked" who else sees it that way?" I don't. Sorry to answer your question and from your profile I see you like to conribute, awesome you are a real inspiration thanks Lin thank for being soooo great. |
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lin wrote:... if you post to this type of inquiry then eventually all the routes where you used to be able escape the crowds will be filled with crowds. Who else sees it that way? ....There are SO MANY good long routes, at every level of difficulty, that its not hard at all to find stuff off the beaten path. I've been on at least a dozen good routes here where we did not encounter other parties all day, and saw little or no chalk. Yet information on some of those routes has been readily available for 25 years or more. Many of them pop up regularly in internet forums. Your theory may sound logical enough, but it flies in the face of my experience. I'll stick with the evidence, thanks. (1) Most people don't like to walk. (2) The crowds are on the "best" 2-3 routes that are readily accessible at a given grade. I enjoy it when other people get as enthused about Red Rock as I do. Why not help them out? |
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Is 'Sour Mash' considered a trade route now? It is a top-10 5.10a, and at least when I did it was NOT considered a trade route. Also some of the stuff on Lotta Balls Wall (IE Lotta Balls) get less traffic and are good. |
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lin wrote:It always boggles my mind when I see people replying to this type of inquiry. Not to sound like a jerk, but if you post to this type of inquiry then eventually all the routes where you used to be able escape the crowds will be filled with crowds. Who else sees it that way? When I visit RR I always talk with other people at the campground and which ever routes are talked about the most I know to avoid.Though I do avoid crowds, I don't see the issue the way you do at all. I just elect to do trade routes on weekdays with early starts on when the forecast is less than perfect. Given that there are a certain number of people, if they all "escape the crowds" and disperse, then they will be dispersed, and then there will be no crowds. Problem solved - or at least that's how I see it. If X = people and Y= Routes, then X/Y = N when N is numer of people per route. You can figure out quickly that N is decreased with an increase in Y. Regardless, maybe I'm a year or two too old to be in the "ME, Me, and then me first, and in that order" generation and realize that it's not all about me. I like to share and am not so territorial. lin wrote:Arron and Josh, don't get you panties so knotted up. Obviously you do wear them or you wouldn't get so bent over another point of view expressed on an open forum.So maybe I am wearing panties too?!?!? Hope that doesn't give you heartburn. They are my wife's. She's hot. |
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lin wrote:Arron and Josh, don't get you panties so knotted up. Obviously you do wear them or you wouldn't get so bent over another point of view expressed on an open forum.Sorry Lin, next time I respond to one of your posts I will try to use more childish insults and personal attacks. |
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Tony, if you want to wear your hot wife's panties then more power to you, just don't get them all knotted up like Josh and Aaron. |