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Nomad's Cave

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Troll S 
Express Yourself S 
Freaks and Geeks S 
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature S 
Predator S 
Predator X S 
Roid, The S 
Sleven 
Unknown at Nomad S 

Nomad's Cave  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.74008, -105.41469 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,044
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Photo beta for the "Nomad Cave Block."

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cave was once inhabited and now boasts many hard routes, many of which rely on manufactured holds. Despite this, the huge overhanging cave makes for some excellent climbs and a great workout, especially on rainy days. Three 5.12s, and three 5.13s can be found here. Three of the routes use natural holds, and the others utilize some drilled two finger pockets. It is easy to cruise to the cave after warming up on Primo Wall to finish your day with some super hard climbing. Enjoy. The same seasonal information applies as Primo Wall; great in the summer especially if it is rainy, and brutally cold in the winter.

Getting There 

Nomad's Cave is near the top of Clear Creek. Park in a large pullout at 11.3 miles on the north side. This is just past tunnel 6. Often there is a tyrolean traverse in place from this pullout or downstream 100 feet, and if in place this makes the approach easy. Just cross the stream and find the trail to the cliff. If there is no tyrolean, then you should drive another 0.5 miles up the canyon to where the creek crosses under the road. Park in a pullout here (south side) and find the rough trail that heads back downstream on the north side. This trail is good most of the way, but one will encounter some exposed scrambling above cliffs and the creek. Take caution. This trail leads you past the Nomad's Cave on the way to the Primo Wall. If you continue on this trail it will take you to the Crystal Tower farther downstream.

L->R: 

Gully left of Cave

A. Sleven, V11-12.

Cave

B. The Roid, 13-, 1p, bolts.
C. Express Yourself, 13, 1p, bolts.
D1C. Bad Day Mining, 12+, 1p, bolts.
D2. Predator, 12, 1p, bolts.
D3. Predator X, 13-, 1p, bolts.
ED2. Cave Troll, 13+, 1p, 40', bolts, linkup.
EF. Freaks and Geeks, 14-, 1p, bolts. Variation start to G.
F. Unknown at Nomad, 13+, 1p, bolts.
GF. Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature, 12, 1p, bolts.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nomad's Cave:
Pizza Dick aka Mother Nature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Unknown at Nomad   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Freaks and Geeks   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Nomad's Cave

Featured Route For Nomad's Cave
The boulder as you see it when you approach.

Sleven V11 8A  CO : Golden : ... : Nomad's Cave
Start matched on the seam down and right. Traverse left and up, on some bad holds and even worse feet, until you get to the final dyno to reach to the lip. For me personally this is the hardest problem I have ever done, but consensus puts it a little lower to get only 11 points.This problem has a stand start somewhere in the V8-9 range. I was told this problem was V7 and after 5 days of trying it and still not having done all the moves I know I had been had. So the name - no surprise - comes...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Nomad's Cave
Photos of Nomad's Cave Slideshow Add Photo
Jordan Gehrig below Predator in the Nomad's Cave.
Jordan Gehrig below Predator in the Nomad's Cave.
Predator.
BETA PHOTO: Predator.
Pullin' on Jimmy's pockets at the Nomad Cave.
Pullin' on Jimmy's pockets at the Nomad Cave.
Approaching Nomad's Cave - can see all routes exce...
Approaching Nomad's Cave - can see all routes exce...

Comments on Nomad's Cave Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jun 9, 2003
This place would be kick ass if it weren't for all the bullshit chipping. I would like to meet the guy who put the routes up and give him a hobby. These routes must have taken way too long to be worth doing. Oh well, some people are just assholes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2003
Jeremy, the guy's name who chipped the routes is Pete Zoeller. I believe he still lives and climbs in the Boulder area. Go at 'em, boy!!
By Mr. Nick
Oct 2, 2012
On 10/1/2012, I found a down jacket and a water bottle left in the cave. Let me know the brand and color of the jacket, and I can get it back to you whenever. The only reason I didn't leave it was because someone stole the draws I left on "Squeeze Play" after I was done working it as well as one of them off of "Public Solitude."