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Nomad Dome

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Ben T 
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Willard T 

Nomad Dome  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.04015, -116.13489 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,490
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Nov 28, 2002
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Description 

A nice rock that offers both trad and sport climbs. The quality is decent although somewhat flaky. Routes need to be climbed more often. Routes are in the sun most of the day. There are two 2-bolt rap anchors. One is on the SW corner, and one is on the west face. Two ropes are needed to descend. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.9.


Getting There 

Park at the lot for Uncle Willie's. Walk up the main trail towards the Astro Domes. When you get near the Astro Domes you will see a trail heading east. This trail will take you toward Nomad Dome which is visible to the east. It has a crack that runs from bottom to top. Scrambling leads you to the rock.


Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nomad Dome:
Last Angry Arab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Final Furious Farsi   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Willard   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Nomad Dome

Featured Route For Nomad Dome
5.10b4me just past the crux. photo taken by Greg Benton. Submitted by 5.10b4me

Last Angry Arab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Nomad Dome
The obvious crack system splitting the west face. Fun climbing with a great view of the Astro Domes from the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Nomad Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Mantles, crimps, and friction.  A little of everything.  Jill near the middle if the first pitch of Willard
Mantles, crimps, and friction. A little of everyt...
Loking south over the ledge with the rap anchors. A 60m rope will get you to a ledge. From there an insecure downclimb will get you to the base. Not recommended for novices.
BETA PHOTO: Loking south over the ledge with the rap anchors. ...
Nomad Dome
BETA PHOTO: Nomad Dome

Comments on Nomad Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 29, 2002
There are two sets of bolts on top, but the ones to rap off are located more or less atop Willard and face to the south. Make a rap from these bolts south to slabs below with one rope. Two ropes are not necessary.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Mar 14, 2010
I like that the general description of this formations says that it offers both "trad and sport."

Ha!

I guess Ben might be "sport" (didn't go up to the base of the route) but both Willard and the Final Furious Farsi are definitely not. It's twenty feet to the first bolt on Willard, and there's some nasty swing potential on Farsi...not to mention 10-15 foot runout between bolts standard.

Love it.

Getting there. You can see it, but can you get to it?! Good luck! I'd say the best advice I can give is to go into the wonderland and stay east in the main valley until the south end of the south Astrodome is right to your west. You'll diverge from the main valley trail to a smaller trail to your east (right). Go north until you're just a hundred feet or so south of Surprise rock (not the 150 yards that Bartlett's book calls for) then turn off to the southeast on an unlikely looking little corridor and you'll get there. If you can see the three roofs of Freak Brother's Dome at any point, you're too far north and too far west. right before you turn off the trail, you should see the south end of Freak Brothers.

You're still gonna get lost the first time you go there.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 29, 2013
OMG Steve! There's no way these are sport routes. Trail to the dome was well trodden and also cairned at critical spots - so, easy to follow for the careful. I headed east too early, up a drainage but it wasn't that bad, returning I followed the trail all the way to the main Wonderland trail.