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Nomad Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Cote, L Poorman FFA Henery Barber and B Anderson
Page Views: 2,570
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 23, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Janet Bergman onsighting Nomad Crack....

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Nomad Crack is a tricky route that starts straight up for 20ft before following the crack right. This right-angling crack contains the route's thought-provoking crux. Many people undercling through the crux, but I stayed low, using marginal locks but pretty good small feet to gain the finger-lock that marks the end of the crux section. After the crux, head straight up again following the crack past at least one more tricky move to gain the summit.

This is one of the only routes in this section that has a nice easy finish. Though it might be a little dirty, it is secure chimney climbing for the last 10 feet.

Like a true Henry Barber climb, expect hard for the grade climbing on a killer crack line.He was truly the man at that time. It seems he had something to do with almost every crack climb at Cathedral between 5.9 and 5.11.


Nomad Crack is the next crack right from Layton's Ascent. The route starts from a ledge that you step down to as you walk right along the wall.


Standard rack. The pro up to the crux is mostly small, so bring some TCUs or the like. After that it's all bomber nuts and good sized cams.

Photos of Nomad Crack Slideshow Add Photo
OK just one more from the shoot with Janet Bergman...
OK just one more from the shoot with Janet Bergman...
Another picture of Janet on her onsight a while ago...
Another picture of Janet on her onsight a while ag...
Nomad is the one on the left
BETA PHOTO: Nomad is the one on the left
Comments on Nomad Crack Add Comment
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 13, 2007

I just got around to climbing this route for the first time yesterday.... What a great climb.... Just as challenging as it is thought provoking.... A must do for climbers of hard cracks....

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 3, 2008

ive been trying to find a end of summer trad goal and i think i just found it....

By burlap submariner
Jan 4, 2011

this route is decent but dont hold a very high expectation, the bottom 15 is awesome however the top 25 changes drastically, the pic of dave rose in websters book makes it look like an amazing splitter/layback flake, after the crux to the ledge it backs off to about 5.8 kitty litter groovin'.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 11, 2011

Nomad should not even be allowed on the Barber Wall. Dave is just trying to make it look good.