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DescriptionA series of spires/rock towers just a bit northwest of Devil's Head. Not much development, but the potential for a lot. Some routes are listed in Hubbel's guidebook, but not many. These spires stick up in the air away from the ridge (except 2nd and 3rd, which are on the windward, SW-facing side), so they stay sunny and clear off early. Unlikely you will see anyone all day at any time of year. Rock is typical Pikes Peak granite of good quality with very little exfoliation. This area was not involved in any of the Buffalo Creek area fires, and so are treed. Water is not available. Getting ThereFrom Sedalia, head west on CO 67 until you get to Sprucewood, turn left (south), and drive about 7 miles on the curvy road until you get to Trail 677. You can take this, or drive another mile or so south and pull out to the right (west) on a forest road access (used for thinning) with a green gate. Hike west and then north on the path of least resistance, using old logging/thinning roads and eventually crossing TR 677, heading north until you hit the South Noddle (4th Noddle). Expect 45 minutes minumum to get to S. Noddle, a bit longer to get to 1,2, or 3rd Noddles. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Noddle Heads:
Beau Knows 5.8 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet North Noddle Head (First No...
Sounds of a Desperate Man 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet North Noddle Head (First No...
Featured Route For Noddle Heads
Beau Knows 5.8 PG13 CO : South Platte : ... : North Noddle Head (First No...
Begins on the prominent, south side of the massif. Climb the large blocks on their east side (broken dihedral) with a few fun moves, around 5.6. Climb up 30m +/- to a new 2-bolt rap/anchor station. From the station, climb straight up the last block, then head left to the first crux (5.7) - an exposed step over to good hands in a crack that goes left and ascends as it goes. Follow this as it leads you to a big ledge (1-2' wide). You will see a pocket about chest high just left of a soft aret...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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