Noddle Heads Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||39.3374, -105.1524 View Map Incorrect?
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|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben|
|Submitted By: ||Jeremy Hakes on Jun 10, 2008|
These are a series of spires/rock towers just a bit northwest of Devil's Head. There has not been much development, but there is potential for a lot. Some routes are listed in Hubbel's guidebook but not many. These spires stick up in the air away from the ridge (except 2nd and 3rd, which are on the windward, SW-facing side), so they stay sunny and clear off early. It is unlikely you will see anyone all day at any time of year. The rock is typical Pike's Peak granite with good quality and very little exfoliation. This area was not involved in any of the Buffalo Creek area fires, and so the slopes are treed. Water is not available.
From Sedalia, head west on CO 67 until you get to Sprucewood, turn left (south), and drive about 7 miles (2.6 miles?) on the curvy road until you get to Trail 677. You can take this, or drive another mile or so south and pull out to the right (west) on a forest road access (used for thinning) with a green gate. Hike west and then north on the path of least resistance, using old logging/thinning roads and eventually crossing TR 677, heading north until you hit the South Noddle (4th Noddle). Expect 45 minutes minumum to get to S. Noddle, a bit longer to get to 1st, 2nd, or 3rd Noddles.
Climbing Season For the South Platte area.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Noddle Heads
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Noddle Heads
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Noddle Heads:
Featured Route For Noddle Heads
Beau Knows 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: South Platte
: ... : North Noddle Head (First No...
Begins on the prominent, south side of the massif. Climb the large blocks on their east side (broken dihedral) with a few fun moves, around 5.6. Climb up 30m +/- to a new 2-bolt rap/anchor station. From the station, climb straight up the last block, then head left to the first crux (5.7) - an exposed step over to good hands in a crack that goes left and ascends as it goes. Follow this as it leads you to a big ledge (1-2' wide). You will see a pocket about chest high just left of a soft aret...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Another huge pile of rock that you walk by off of ...
South Noddle Head
South and North Noddle Heads at sunset.
By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 10, 2008
Part of my reason for posting/adding this area is to solicit input from the many climbers who have been in the area and done these formations. Please add routes and beta!
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 11, 2008
I have not climbed there but I have worked in the area on prescribed burns and wildfires. The approach to these formations seems to be somewhat long unless you have an ATV or dirt bike. Trail 677 is heavily used by motorcycles and ATVs so get out of the way if you hear them coming.
By Scott Sills
May 29, 2009
In 2005 added 70ft. 4 bolt 5.7 slab on east side of fourth noddle head. Also two rap anchors for two pitch 5.8 crack climb (To High To Die). There is still so much potential on these formations. The approach is more like 1 1/2 hours on foot. Is there a more direct aproach than motorcycle trail #677 that doesn't cross private land?
By Jay Eggleston
Oct 8, 2013
It is only 2.6 miles to the trailhead from Sprucewood, not seven as listed in the description.
By Kerry Neuville
Mar 24, 2014
I have not followed Trail 677, but I have used the second option described, the forest access road with a green gate (it is on the RH side of the road at the bottom of a long hill if you are coming from the east, Sprucewood). There is plenty of room for 3 or 4 cars, and the road is super easy to follow with a minimum amount of energy loss, an hour tops. You will meet up with Trail 677 just under the power lines east of the formations.