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Nobody's Home 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuberg and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 8, 2002
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Description 

This route is about 30 feet downhill from Rush Buick. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.

This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.

For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.

The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.

There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.


Protection 

Protections is fair but tricky. Tiny HBs, #0 Metolius TCU at the bottom, up to green/0.75 Camalot. Lots of slings and draws. There are many placements, but few bomber pieces.


Descent 

Per Ivan Rezucha: As of 11/8/02, there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.



Photos of Nobody's Home Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the end of the pitch and the very cool "big suprise" at the end.
Nearing the end of the pitch and the very cool "bi...
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 11, 2002

DESCENT: As of 11/8/02 there were slings with rings through a tunnel in the roof of the cave. I didn't like the look of them, so I traversed left and down to the anchor (slings and rings) on Rush Buick and belayed and then rapped from there.

By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2005

Not bad...but I wouldn't do it again.

By Frosty Weller
From: Colorado
Jul 10, 2008

We liked this challenging Eldo 5.9 and the "big suprise" at the end... it's worthy. And if the slings are good, the rap anchor through the tunnel is bomb. Much better than the Rush Buick anchor.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 17, 2009

This route is short, but has a lot to offer:
cool location,
a hard to protect crux,
steep and pumpy climbing all the way up (with just enough jugs to keep the grade down),
and of course the nice surprise....

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Jan 8, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

Spicy.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

The gear at the bottom is solid (purple Camalot), but then gets spotty for a while with a possible groundfall from 10-15' before coming back. Generally speaking, this route is PG-13; there are many individual placements which you are relying on for your safety, as they are sparse and singular - single points of gear failure could be catastrophic. I'm not saying that the gear is intrinsically poor, but you have to have your game hat on. This is not a route to take lightly.

By Kevin Presley
From: Loveland
Jan 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Does not have gear when you want it, but there is gear when you really need it. Like the comment above, the gear is not bomber. Fun route, but I would not lead it again. Be solid at the grade.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

I thought this pitch climbed much better and much steeper than it appeared from the ground. Totally disagree with SL's guide that it's awkward, but agree with his FUN statement. I thought it was quite interesting and thought provoking. Maybe it was my avoiding the awkwardness, but the way it keeps pushing you right over the steepness for your lower body with fun exposure was fantastic.