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Penstemon Dome
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Captain America T,S 
No Zukes T 

No Zukes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 470'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA:  McCabe, Swanson, 8/82
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Steve Blevins on Aug 30, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Steve works past last bolt to Rope a Dope anchors....

Description 

Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'

Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'

Pitch 3: Conflicting information between published sources available. Our route on 8-23-13: Work up face somewhat left past 3 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 3rd bolt work up and right to crack system/arete. Crack is good (small pro) but is dirty. Above crack system/arÍte is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work either straight up face to top out (run out and requires simul climbing) or work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears to Rope a Dope anchors (full 60m). Good but spooky 5.9

Location 

Next corner system right of Capatain America, right of Song of the Earth.

Rappel Rope a Dope (2 60m ropes) to other obvious anchors. 4 rappels

Protection 

All 3 belays have bolted anchors. Small (tcu's)to medium cams. Blue cam, probably want 2 for offwidth.


Photos of No Zukes Slideshow Add Photo
Steve approaches P2 belay. Photo by JustinP
BETA PHOTO: Steve approaches P2 belay. Photo by JustinP

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