No Wimp Situation
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Just around the corner to the right of Professor P...
Just a few feet right of Silmarillion
is this 3-bolt route up a very thin crack. The first bolt is a bit higher than most first bolts at Castlewood, but it requires only fairly easy climbing to get to. The thin, 1-move crux at the first bolt is followed by 5.10ish climbing to the 2 anchor bolts. The anchors are not visible from the ground, but they're there. Keep in mind that the anchor bolts are not rap/lowering compatible...they're the same hangers as the ones on the route. Have the second climber clean the route and walk off to the right or walk to the top to clean up your equipment at the anchors.
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at the lip.
Jan 17, 2004
First bolt is up there, alright. I thought it was a stretch to get to it, and therefore a bit sketchy. Crux is tough...
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I didn't feel that it was an 11c, though that may just be because I stuck to the dihedral until the first bolt. If you stay left of the bolt line or straight under it, it may go at 11c.