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 ADVANCED
New Vice Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alligator Allimony TR 
B.F. Bugs S 
Blue Moon S 
Call of the Mild S 
Dealer's Choice S 
Doctor Limit S 
Doctor Rock S 
Eel Pocket Route TR 
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 
Eyebolt Approach TR 
Frequent Flatulence S 
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 
Jenna's Chimney T,S,TR 
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 
Living Postmortems S 
New Tomorrow S 
No Whippin Boys T 
Pandemonium S 
Pleasant Summer Absence S 
Prairie Fire S 
Syncopation T,TR 
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 
Two Tone Zephyr S 
Unknown S 
Vertical Vice S 
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 

No Whippin Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 2,275
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: A really fun finger crack!

Description 

Follow the finger crack up and to the right. I tended to lay the crack back more than jam, but either works well. Place nuts and cams as you go or TR after leading Prairie Fire. The rock is relatively solid by Red Wing standards.
  • RCM&W #114, p.137.

Location 

This route starts to the immediate right of the bolted crack Living Postmortems. Look for a finger crack with a nearby bolt (1st bolt on Living Postmortems).

Protection 

Nuts and small cams, 1 optional bolt down low (Living Postmortems), and 1 up high (Prairie Fire). Shares anchors with Prairie Fire, please use your own hardware for top roping.


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By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Jul 10, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb. Move quick.
By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great finger locks on this thing. Gobbles pro, bring doubles of BD green and purple and singles of other small BD cams. The larger three master cams worked great on this as well.
By ferrells
Jul 11, 2010

This was one of my first 10a trad leads. Perhaps 2003?
I made it clean to the anchor on what I thought was probably good gear. When I clipped the anchor and sat back, I did not have a multi-directional first piece, and my partner was pretty far back. Every piece of gear popped out of the crack, and spun around the rope to rest on top of my belayer's ATC. I remember thinking, "Oh, that explains that recommendation..."
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 6, 2011

Bomber finger locks! It felt like the feet were VERY slick, but it's been a while since I've climbed at red wing :)

I second the doubles on BD .75 (green) I would have liked three, although a nut worked just fine...

Watch out for the bat who lives about 2/3 way up... I almost whipped because of him!