No Where To Run
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|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 610 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Marea Ross, Aug 23 2006|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Aug 24, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: Route A) Dedication 5.7+R Route B)No Where To Run....
Starts at the top of the wave(cairn) about 200' to the right of the route "Dedication"."No Where To Run" was climbed in 'very ' warm conditions.
P1) Straight up the middle of the slab where it forms a blunt ridge to reach double anchors. 180'5.6.
P2)From the belay traverse slightly down about 20' to the right to a small gray groove . Follow this then left to a sandy flake in the center of the slab . Up this to a bolt then 20' to double anchors on a good ledge. 160' 5.8+R.
P3)Easier climbing up a shallow groove towards the base of the upper groove system. 200'5.5.
P4)Smear up the groove passed pro bolts . When the bolt at the top right of the groove is reached traverse about 15' straight right to the edge and another bolt. Continue up the edge passed one more bolt(one may want to unclip the first bolt on the edge to lessen rope drag) to double anchors at two prominent pot holds. 170' 5.10R.
Descent :- Rap the route
Approach from about a quarter mile from the entrance to Three finger canyon . Walk to the north towards the buttress with the dark round swirls in its center ,and scramble to the top of the wave at its northern end. About 15/20mins easy walk.
Some cams from Alien size to 3.5 friend. quick draws. Two 60m ropes.
Starting pitch 2
Topping out Pitch 3
Starting up Pitch 4
After the traverse right pitch 4