This route starts out above a cut off stump and is 5.8 for the first half, this section is R and takes small RPs behind a flake that may expand. Head for a ledge with a small bush. The second section goes right of the bush. I ended up going right and clipping a pin on Easter Island, then going right to clip a bolt and back cleaned the pin. Now, head straight up to the notch in the roof; this is the 5.10 section. Find a pin and some gear and power through the roof. The final 20 feet are on lichen-covered 5.6 find your own way up the lichen.
Rossiter's book says this is a two pitch route, but it sure is fun in one pitch. The book says to belay at the tree after the 5.8 where you will find a pin.
This route is at the far northeast end of Lower Peanuts. Find the cut off stump and the notch in the roof up above.
The route uses a standard rack, no big gear. Focus on the #1 BD cam and below, take your small nuts. The anchor I had was suspect, so I had to use long runners to use more than one loose block.
|By Wayne Crill|
From: an Altered State
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
I thought this was a really fun route, probably worth three stars if not for the choss band (plenty solid) and the circuitous-wandering nature of the line. The bottom is definitely 5.8R, but that's significantly below the grade, so I think it's more of a PG-13 route, Jalapeņo spicy. Tricky but good gear, a little spaced here and there. I found Loweballs to be very useful and inspiring in many of the thin cracks and flakes. Aaron's description sums it up well, I would probably not use the flexing, suspect KB on Easter Island next time as there is a good nut ~3' below and the single bolt is 6' directly L. of this pin causing some awkward drag with both clipped even with long slings. Definitely bring at least a half dozen shoulder slings. Exciting, technically sustained climbing past the bolt and out the notch. Well worth seeking out, pretty classic Eldo style. An unknown gem of a line, nice work, Mike!