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Free Form Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

No Vacancy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim DiNapoli, 1998
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: dancesatmoonrise on Jul 19, 2012

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Reverence to Mr. Van Horn can be seen at the base ...

Description 

This route is just left of Partners in Crime, on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.

The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party, and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2x4 sleeve bolts with metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.

History - The FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction, and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up, and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."

Protection 

7 bolts to the anchor - six original, on standard 3/8" hangers; one added later by unknown party, on a home-made hanger.


Photos of No Vacancy Slideshow Add Photo
The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...
BETA PHOTO: The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...
Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.
Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.
Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /
Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /
Making the crux clip.
Making the crux clip.
Bolts 2-7 look like this.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts 2-7 look like this.
Three clips into the onsight.  Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Three clips into the onsight. Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Topping out on the small buttress to start.
Topping out on the small buttress to start.
Entering the business district.
Entering the business district.

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