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Free Form Wall
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Helium Boys S 
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No Vacancy S 
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Unsorted Routes:

No Vacancy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim DiNapoli, 1998
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: dancesatmoonrise on Jul 19, 2012

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Reverence to Mr. Van Horn can be seen at the base ...


This route is just left of Partners in Crime, on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.

The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party, and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2x4 sleeve bolts with metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.

History - The FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction, and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up, and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."


7 bolts to the anchor - six original, on standard 3/8" hangers; one added later by unknown party, on a home-made hanger.

Photos of No Vacancy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...
BETA PHOTO: The route starts by ascending the small buttress a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.
Kat studies the moves to bolt 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /
Climbing graffiti identifies the start. : /
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the crux clip.
Making the crux clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts 2-7 look like this.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts 2-7 look like this.
Rock Climbing Photo: Three clips into the onsight.  Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Three clips into the onsight. Bolt 5 as at top ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on the small buttress to start.
Topping out on the small buttress to start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the business district.
Entering the business district.

Comments on No Vacancy Add Comment
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By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Jan 21, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Looking in the Knapp and Thompson guide, this route is "No Math Required" and the FA was Robertson and Romano... just looking to clarify if this is the same route?

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