Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Full Steam Ahead T 
Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

No Utopia 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 805
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Casey N. reeling in the positive holds, and big mo...

Description 

"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to describe a less than ideal situation... I just like saying it, but it is also In reference to the grovelly, physical block start to the route which I have never enjoyed, and the fact that the otherwise brilliant upper climbing is somewhat marred by not being a completely independent line.

This curvacious pitch shares the start and first third of Natural Enhancement. Beware the 'in your face' starting moves (5.11-, PG-13) whether you are leading or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that boulder, but it's bound to happen sooner or later so heads up.

At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia, and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is overhanging, and fully engaging.

The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a lot of wires.

Location 

Starts about 25' left of No Feelings at a very pointed boulder.

Protection 

Single set of fingers, doubles from .5 BD to #2 BD. At least one full set of wires from #2-#10, and a set of offsets in addition are really nice to have as well. Three bolts in the middle. Save a #2 BD and #.75 BD for the top!!


Photos of No Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
Casey, coming to terms with No Utopia.
Casey, coming to terms with No Utopia.
Casey N. moving into No Utopia. You can place a #.3 and a medium wire at this point to protect the bouldery entrance moves.
Casey N. moving into No Utopia. You can place a #....
No Utopia.
BETA PHOTO: No Utopia.

Comments on No Utopia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2013

This route is awesome and protects very well. With rope stretch, a 60 meter rope will just get you back to the pointed boulder at the base.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Waterfall Classic in my book. Another fantastic Mixed Route! Safe yet very exciting!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 11, 2013

It's the best face climbing down there for the grade. I've heard it's an awesome onsight, good work Robbie.