No Turning Back
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Off the ledge and the second route to the right of the Blonde Ambition. No Turning Back (NTB) is marked by a series of small right-facing corners that are mastered by lie-backs and tricky feet that start right off the deck. The corners look deceptively easy, but don't be fooled. This route starts to slap immediately and remains relentlessly continuous right to the end. The only rest crops up after 40-45 ft of powerful pulling, and it's a lousy rest at that. Above the small horizontal band at 50 ft, the climbing eases back to moderate 5.11 on small, sometimes incut edges. Tod Anderson copped the FFA after a week of training with 16 oz curls and some serious tanning time.
QD only. At close to 90 ft, this route need about 15 QD and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
|Comments on No Turning Back
Jul 16, 2012
Needs some more cleaning I pulled off a football sized rock at the top with zero effort.I also felt like the hollow flakes were going to peel off and hit my belayer.Good movement but so-so rock.